Drain Tube

Traction Owner’s Club Forums Technical Engine Drain Tube

  • This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by Non Member.
Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #24722
    Non Member
    Participant

      Hi guys

      I am new to the forum and to traction ownership.

      I have a question about the inlet manifold drain tube, due to neglect by the previous owner I have had to replace the inlet manifold.

      Where the drain tube should have gone there was a bolt!

      I want to put the proper drain tube in the new manifold. As I have no pattern to work from I need some information.

      Question, is the tube just a tube or does it have some sort of valve?

      If it is just a tube does it let air into the manifold?

      Hope you chaps can help me ?

      Cheers

      Ken

      #24725
      David Faulkner
      Participant

        It’s just a fine tube part 453 112 which you can buy for 3 euro complete with gland nut from Fransens in Belgium (available elsewhere though costs a lot more) so at that price it’s not worth making one….

        The end is simply crushed to restrict the amount of air that can be drawn in, too large a hole and it affect the mixture

        overflow

        CTA have an ‘engine tips’ guide which explains:

        Traction Tip 28: Fuel overflow pipe.( drain pipe)

        This pipe is bolted on the side of the intake manifold and bent so its leading downwards between the engine and the side of the “jambonneau”. Trough this pipe the redundant fuel in the manifold has to be carried away. For this there is a little hole at the end of the pipe. Take care that this hole is not blocked or even more important it’s not too big. If the hole is to big the engine will take in a lot of false air, this influences the stationary adjustment (idle) of the engine. It can not be adjusted properly anymore. Using pliers you can crimp this hole to a size of about 0,5mm. If you, when the engine is running, keep your finger against the hole you can feel the vacuum created by the engine. If you changed the size of the hole, you have to adjust the stationary idle of the engine.

        • This reply was modified 6 years ago by David Faulkner.
        #24727
        David Faulkner
        Participant

          BTW the OD of the pipe is just under 4mm if you want to make one yourself. If the manifold hole is is damaged by the bolt maybe look for a 4mm to 1/8th bsp fitting like this to repair the hole https://tinyurl.com/y4qgqkun

          #24728
          Non Member
          Participant

            Hi

            Thanks chaps ,I knew I could rely on you guys !!

            Cheers

            Ken

            #24734
            Paul Barnard
            Participant

              Hi Ken

              I had to smile when I saw your post. When I first got my car and was attempting to get it running better, I noticed that the vacuum advance and retard pipe was missing from where it should attach to the back of the carburettor, I checked and it was definitely visible at the distributor end so following it around behind the engine I found that the previous owner, for some reason best known to himself, had attached it to the end of the manifold drain pipe. I can’t imagine that it worked very well bearing in mind the size of the hole and of course the correct fitting point was busy sucking in air. Needless to say it runs better with the pipe attached correctly.

              #24744
              Non Member
              Participant

                Hi  Paul

                Reading between the lines I think the same guy who owned your car must have owned my car at some point!!!!!!

                 

              Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
              • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.