Gearbox Output Couplings & Oil Seals

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11th September 2015 at 1:06 pm #4426
Anonymous
While I have the engine and gearbox out of the car I want to fit new oil seals and the Gearbox Output Coupling repair kit which I ordered a while back (after Den pointed me in the right direction).

So I have the gearbox on the bench and have attempted to release the two nuts holding these flanges on. I cannot budge them. Are they standard right hand thread? Not sure how much force I should be putting on these.

And if I get these off, do I really need the special flange removal tool or does anyone have any tips on removing these flanges with just standard workshop tools.

And lastly, how do the original oil seals come out, is it a matter of prizing them out with a screwdriver and then refitting the new rubber units in place.

Thanks
Ian
11th September 2015 at 2:24 pm #6623
Anonymous
OK – I made up the long lever tool that slots onto two of the flange bolts. Then after applying heat to the flange nut I used a long armed socket spanner and it loosened quite easily. Right hand thread.

Then the flange just eased off the splined output shaft. So no need for a puller…. phew.

So now I am faced with the metal oil seal. The leather inner seal (& spring) are knackered, hence the slow oil leak I have had from both sides. But do I just prise this metal cover off (damaging it) and replace with the new rubber seal I bought from CAS. I am hoping it does not sit inside and I have to open up the box to put it in….nah!, can’t be ❓ ❓
11th September 2015 at 3:03 pm #6624
Anonymous
OK – not impatient at all 😆

I asked CAS and they told me to remove the old metal seal. bloody hell, that was tough. Basically came out in a million pieces. Will take a series of photos on the next side as a bit of a guide as to how I did it.

So now it is time to insert new rubber seal, put on the SKF fixing kit for the output coupling and bolt it all back together.
11th September 2015 at 5:30 pm #6625
Anonymous
Both sides done. As soon as the photo limit is raised I will stick up my method….. it is not pretty 😆
13th September 2015 at 5:47 pm #6626
Anonymous
OK here is my method – now this was particularly rough and ready, learning as I went along 😯

So, pull out the split pin from the nut.

[attachment=2:2d54pnep]P1070689.jpeg[/attachment:2d54pnep]

Now this nut I tried vigorously to undo but with the gearbox on the bench it was hard to hold everything in place and get a decent torque on it. So I manufactured the tool that is detailed in Drawing #27 of the workshop manual which helped.

[attachment=1:2d54pnep]P1070690.jpeg[/attachment:2d54pnep]

and I also applied heat to nut.

[attachment=0:2d54pnep]P1070691.jpeg[/attachment:2d54pnep]
13th September 2015 at 5:49 pm #6627
Anonymous
Then with a long socket wrench (my torque spanner) the nut unloosened very slowly.

[attachment=2:fn0t418j]P1070692.jpeg[/attachment:fn0t418j]

Then with a small screw driver you can prise the inner washer out, it is not stuck just fiddly to get into. Be careful, it is also very hot 😳

[attachment=1:fn0t418j]P1070693.jpeg[/attachment:fn0t418j]

The one side of the gearbox the coupling just slid off easily but this one was a little tighter. So used a 3 legged puller and with out much force it came off quite easily.

[attachment=0:fn0t418j]P1070695.jpeg[/attachment:fn0t418j]
13th September 2015 at 5:53 pm #6628
Anonymous
The next task was to remove the old oil seal. This was not good. I basically had to cut the metal with shears and tug it out piece by piece. I will do a typical Blue Peter demonstration here…. the before

[attachment=1:279a4nbe]P1070696.jpeg[/attachment:279a4nbe]

And the after 😆

[attachment=0:279a4nbe]P1070697.jpeg[/attachment:279a4nbe]
13th September 2015 at 5:57 pm #6629
Anonymous
The new oil seals are made from plastic and I bought these from CAS part number 408453

[attachment=2:ks9nmtyf]408453-228x228_0.JPG[/attachment:ks9nmtyf]

Before putting the new seal in, I cleared any burrs on the edge of the gearbox. Some of these caused by extracting the old seal. So a quick file around the edge and a clean up was necessary. Then place the new seal evenly into the hole just tap evening around the circumference of the seal. Not to hard and keep checking in case the edge starts to blister on the edge. It is a very tight fit.

[attachment=1:ks9nmtyf]P1070698.jpeg[/attachment:ks9nmtyf]

et voila, the seal is in place (but you can see the scarring from extracting that old seal 😮 )

[attachment=0:ks9nmtyf]P1070700.jpeg[/attachment:ks9nmtyf]
13th September 2015 at 6:04 pm #6630
Anonymous
Ah the old ‘brute force and ignorance method’ works when all else fails 😆

Rather than make a ‘tool’ I would have just used a long socket extension between 2 of the studs……. 😮
14th September 2015 at 7:41 am #6631
Anonymous
@OSL282 wrote:

Rather than make a ‘tool’ I would have just used a long socket extension between 2 of the studs……. 😮

I did try getting away without the tool, but trying to hold down the gearbox, hold the spanner and then hold the extension at the same time it got a little messy. The tool worked first time and was actually longer than described in the manual which helped with leverage.
14th September 2015 at 7:57 am #6632
Anonymous
The surfaces on my output coupling shafts were a little scored and I had already bought the sheath kit so I put them on. Very simple process with the small tool provided in the kit. [ 💡 info provided by Den Hewitt – If the couplings are worn then you can use SKF Speedi Repair Kits part number 99146. I have used these. See my article in Floating Power Vol 25 2011 Issue 3 May/Jun. 💡 ]

[attachment=2:swpi9kly]P1070701.jpeg[/attachment:swpi9kly]

Very lightly tap around the edge, not too hard. Every few taps, I removed the tool just to check the sheath was sliding on straight.

[attachment=1:swpi9kly]P1070702.jpeg[/attachment:swpi9kly]

With the new sheaths on, you need to put the output coupling back on the splined shaft of the gearbox. Again, one slid on easily, the second needed a little help. I first checked for burrs on the splines then gently lined up the spines onto the shaft. Tapped a block of wood to start the coupling on its downward journey. Once there was enough thread showing, I placed the washer and nut on and tightened using my torque wrench and of course my manufactured tool (you may as well use it is you have made it.. right 😀 )

[attachment=0:swpi9kly]P1070703.jpeg[/attachment:swpi9kly]
14th September 2015 at 7:59 am #6633
Anonymous
All done, new oil seals and new sheaths. Just hoping this will rectify the small leak I was getting. I have filled the gearbox with oil and left it on the bench to see if I do get any leakage, but I think it will need the movement of the engine to make sure for sure.

[attachment=0:2s5q9hrg]P1070704.jpeg[/attachment:2s5q9hrg]
14th September 2015 at 10:32 am #6634
Anonymous
Another brilliant writeup, thank you Ian. What an excellent resource!
17th September 2015 at 12:37 am #6622
Anonymous
Excellent post Ian – Thank you. This is going to be my winter project. I have a small leak at one side but a slightly bigger one at the other. I now know how to tackle it!

Thanks
Peter
Canada
17th September 2015 at 1:00 pm #6635
Anonymous
Want to make the job easy? take the bell housing off. it’s not hard to do and you get to wash out the gearbox with petrol and with new seals and gaskets, all will be well. Once the BH is off, the seals just fall out and a gasket set isn’t expensive.
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