Traction Owner’s Club › Forums › Forum Archive › Traction Owners Club Forum › Help Wanted › Engine Mounts
In the spares shop the engine mounts are listed as rubber springs. Does this mean the new springs are rubber mounts?
I’m probably the least qualified to respond, but here goes.
The usual/original engine mounts are the ‘conical springs’, though you can get these rubber replacement mounts for an eye watering €145 (a pair) from CAS here http://www.cas-shop.nl/en/traction-11cv/engine-and-gearbox-suspens/enginebracket-set-special-rubber.html
Not sure what the club shop supply, or where they get them from.
[attachment=0:2vvosg5d]image.jpg[/attachment:2vvosg5d]
@NormanAnderson wrote:
Not sure what the club shop supply, or where they get them from.
Club shop gets a lot of it’s stock from….. CTA 😎
Thanks for the info everyone. I have a couple of MGF mounts I will look to see if they can be adapted.
Courtesy of a CAS Facebook album, this is what the rubber engine mounts look like in situ
[attachment=0:1wcwgy0z]TA-Mount.jpg[/attachment:1wcwgy0z]
Is there an advantage to having the rubber mounts as opposed to the steel springs?
@L.Lewis wrote:
Is there an advantage to having the rubber mounts as opposed to the steel springs?
Supposedly yes, as you remove the rear engine mount rubber which transmits noise through the bulkhead, so the car is quieter with less vibration.
I have not been in a position to compare like for like though and no one has yet posted to confirm or deny the benefit in person.
Thanks for the pictures. These look very similar to the ones I am looking at from a MGF. My concern on removing the back rubber mount is what stops the engine see sawing back and forwards?
I am assuming because the silent blocs are fixed where the springs have lots of movement.
I think Inam going to try the new ones. I am currently on a rally touristique with the Traction Universelle so do lots of miles and over 80kph my head is banging. Lots hear saying it is normal, but it is uncomfortable so I want to irradicate it.
Otherwise car is going well 😀
Ian,
you might want to send an email to Steve Wright (wright.sa@dgrd.co.uk) who is a TOC member and carried out a load of sound deadening work on his 1954 Normale.
He worked with a company that specializes in sound deadening motor vehicles – they may have used his car to make templates so that a “sound deadening kit” is available by model.
@OSL282 wrote:
@L.Lewis wrote:
Is there an advantage to having the rubber mounts as opposed to the steel springs?
Supposedly yes, as you remove the rear engine mount rubber which transmits noise through the bulkhead, so the car is quieter with less vibration.
I have not been in a position to compare like for like though and no one has yet posted to confirm or deny the benefit in person.
Has anyone else tried a set as yet? Presumably this firms up the engine mounting quite a bit and reduces movement when changing gear, decelerating, etc. I am going to order a set of these and will report back when fitted.
I too would like to hear from someone who has fitted these.
I can only see that they might be of use (short term) if both the gearbox rubber diablo mount and the rear engine mount were perished, and taking the engine and gearbox out to replace them was not an option for some time.
I cannot see the benefit of having no rear engine mount.
I have just got some rubber mounts that I will be fitting. I need to make up a adjustment device first so it may be a while. I can see now why it is possible to remove the rear engine mount and not have a problem. My main concern with doing that is the extra stress put on the two arms from the engine to the mounts either side and that if they fail there is nothing to stop the engine dropping.
………..
Presumably if the engine mounts, whether spring or rubber, are properly adjusted, then the rear mount is central in the aperture and only contacts when the mountings flex. It would be worth seeing if , with the extra stiffness of the replacement rubber mounts reducing engine movement significantly , a correctly adjusted rear mount could be left in place and would only occasionally touch the aperture?
This would then also help to stop the engine dropping in an emergency.