Reply To: Fuel Gauge Ohm Rating
Roger Grix
Can you post a picture of the back of your gauge?
I am guessing that the basics are the same as my one, even if the shapes are different.
You will see the two nuts for the wires and the other two nuts on studs in slots. This allows the coils to be move closer to or further from the needle armature to give each coil a variable effect on the needle movement. These studs adjust the positions of the 2 internal coils.
The following is what I did with mine and it’s not too bad. I’d suggest taking everything out of the car and putting the bits on the workbench. Connect up the bits. Join the body of the meter to the body of the sender (the earth connections).
Connect 12V between the B terminal and the earth (body). With the sender in the empty (down) position, the T coil is basically bypassed by the sender which is approximately zero ohms.
Adjust the B coil to give you “Empty”. Moving the coil in increases its effect and out reduces it.
Now lift the sender to the full position and adjust the T coil to give “Full”. The two coils will probably interact with each other a bit and will require a bit of fiddling back and forth.
Beware of the problem that I had. I fiddled for ages trying to get zero before I realised that the needle was bent – mechanical problem, not electrical J.
I hope that this helps.
R