Brakes suddenly binding

[Benjamin Pringle]

Hello all,

Firstly hope everyone is well.

Two of the brakes on my 1953 Normale have suddenly decided to start binding – the front right hand brake and rear left hand brake. I noticed this while moving the car, a day after an uneventful drive recently. Given that the car performed normally the day before, I was surprised to discover two of the brakes binding.

Initially I thought it was just the front right hand side, after jacking up and removing the wheel, I discovered the nut that holds the drum in place – without the correct size spanner or socket I instead gave the drum a sharp tap with a hammer, which freed the brake enough to turn the wheel by hand, although resistance can still be felt. Jacking up the other corners, I then discovered the rear left hand brake was also binding enough to prevent the wheel turning by hand. The remaining two wheels rotate and spin freely.

I have inspected the master cylinder under the inspection panel in the engine bay, all appears dry. The brake pipe running out to the T-connector also appears dry. Is there a system on these cars whereby the diagonally opposite wheels are linked to a common hydraulic system? Looking at the brake lines, it doesn’t appear to be the case although it’s entirely possible that I’m missing something.

Any thoughts or advice on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

Best regards,

Ben

[BernieParticipant]

Ben,

There is no sophisticated brake piping areangement.

I think the most likely cause is simply going to be sticking wheel cylinders – especially if the car has not been on the toad for some time.

Rear hubs are easy to dismantle because the nut should be little more than finger tight.  Fronts are more complicated and in addition to the 38mm socket and a long bar you will probably need some device to hold the hub from turning as the nut will be very tight.

In addition the front hub nuts are handed.  The right hand side has a left hand thread and vice-versa. You will also need the special hub puller to get the hub off the taper of the drive shaft.

You mentioned not having the right socket for the hub nut …. but I thought a (not so) little bird told me you were given the necessary front-end tools when you bought the car.  Maybe you need to look in the boot!  If I have got that wrong, I apologise and, in that case, you will be welcome to borrow the tools from me .. let me know.

B……..

[Benjamin Pringle]

Thanks Bernie

In that case I shall take to rear wheel off to investigate, I had wrongly assumed the rear would be the same arrangement as the front.

Regarding the front, you are correct, thinking about it I do have some tools… thanks for the nudge! I cannot remember exactly which tools came with the car, I will double check as I have a feeling I don’t have the special hub puller.

Ben

[Benjamin Pringle]

The rear hub is off – just. The shoes tried their best to hold on to the drum! The cylinder indeed appears to be sticking – I suppose the only remedy is a new cylinder?

Ben

[BernieParticipant]

Ben,

In my experience, fitting a new cylinder is the best long-term solution.

B….

[Benjamin Pringle]

Thanks Bernie,

In that case I’ll order one up… you wouldn’t happen to know whether it requires a Bendix or non-Bendix cylinder would you? I see there are two options in the spare parts catalogue however there appear to be no markings on the cylinder itself.

Ben

[BernieParticipant]

Bendix is an original manufacturer.  The non-Bendix is an aftermarket version.  Either part will fit, the difference us the price/quality.

B…

[Benjamin Pringle]

Thanks again, Bernie. I’ll order one ASAP in that case.

Ben

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