Norman,
I normally re-torque a head after an initial warm up and then again around the 500 mile mark – both on a hot engine.
To get an accurate torque you need to eliminate any “stiction” which will cause a false (high) initial torque reading. So, before re-torquing each fixing, slacken it off enough to turn freely (about a quarter turn is usually adequate) and then, in a single sweep, immediately re-tighten to the correct torque (5mkg?).
The job is possible without removing the bonnet but access will be restricted and that might affect your ability to re-tighten some of the fixings in a single move.
B…….