New Clutch

[Anonymous]

A recent sortie in my Light 15 showed some clutch slippage on a nearby hill. A quick adjustment back at base seemed to fix matters for the moment but I am right at the end of the adjustment on the operating rod and its seems sensible to change the clutch before it either finally gives up the ghost in slow moving traffic, or causes some other problems. I am intending to replace with a diaphragm and after extensive research in the TOC archives I have bought what I hope is the right (Peugeot) cover and a fellow member is supplying me with a new clutch plate, release bearing and spacer ring that are surplus to his requirements. I will be taking the opportunity also to change the engine mountings to the metallastik type as discussed elsewhere in the forum and will be doing a few other minor jobs whilst the engine is out.
My aim is to hopefully record everything in pictures and eventually produce a ‘how to’ thread for the forum, maybe even for FP.

I shall be picking everyone’s brains if I get stuck in the meantime, and the first question is, please can anyone tell me what torque the bolts fixing the cover assembly to the flywheel are tightened to?

[Anonymous]

Hi hoping not to get into this yet.

The book for original states 14.5 ft/lb +1.81ft/lb -0 ft/lb with spring washer under head,if using the existing threads do not see any reason for change.
No idea why the tolerance? Will watch with interest.

Dave

[Anonymous]

Thanks for your reply. I am not sure why the tolerance either?
Most of my parts have shown up now, so I will be good to go in the next few days hopefully.

[Anonymous]

Hi Bryan, how are you getting on? I bought the diaphragm kit from Chris T the other day and will be fitting it at Easter, if not before. Chris told me it’s quite straightforward and I’m hoping to hear the same from you!
Chris

[Anonymous]

Hi Chris
I haven’t done anything for the moment.
My re-adjustment seems to have done the trick just now and looking at Steve Wright’s car recently, suggests that I do have some scope for future adjustment, so I have put the parts on the shelf for the moment.
I have had a couple of conversations about changing the final drive ratio, (my car feels very low geared) which logically would be done at the same time, and I may save it all up as a winter project when the car is off the road during the salt and ice season. Unless my car decides otherwise, I will aim to simply drive it over the summer and try and leave my spanners in the toolbox. 😆
I have however, as I have noted elsewhere, changed the volute springs for composite, which appears to be a well worthwhile modification, have installed front seatbelts and have spent a lot of time rustproofing, as well as performing the necessary Spring service.

[Anonymous]

Sounds like a plan!
I did mine – everything went together nicely – took me 3 weeks though. No problems (apart from adjusting the cable). Wasn’t slipping before – I did it to fix the judder which it has certainly done. Thoroughly tested on the Guernsey tour. The judder may have been because one of the toggles was set at a height 2mm different from the other two. Or it may have been the small divots missing from the pressure plate – or both – or something else.
Chris

[Author]

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