Replacement of rear silent blocks

[Anonymous]

Can anybody give me any information about any technical or ‘how to do it’ articles in Floating Power please.
I am currently plucking up courage to replace the rear silent blocks having replaced the front units last winter

[Anonymous]

That is the one thing (and the only thing) I did not do on my car. They looked OK and I was just getting fed up by that stage.

So I would be very interested in a “How To” for this 😀

[Anonymous]

Just removed the rear from my 1951 Light 15 (the older cars are different), sorry don’t know if there is an article.
Definitely need the clamp and a good sized mallet for the torsion bars ,my Thor which was new looks very used know.
I have not stripped it down yet but It looks a lot less hassle than the front, which is next when I get home in Feb.

[Anonymous]

I have now removed both suspension arms and would agree the clamp is a necessity.
I had previously thought this would be the case so I had made the clamp before I started. I used two pieces of 20mm thick flat plate and drilled and threaded the clamping bolts. Using these bolts I sandwiched a 4mm thick plate between the plates and had a local company drill a 26mm hole as per the drawing MR 1578 detailed in the Citroen Repair Manual. See the picture attached.
On removal of the silent blocks it was pretty obvious they had seen better days as they came off in three parts!

[Anonymous]

New silent blocks have arrived but waiting to get all parts painted before fitting

[Anonymous]

Will you need to a press to fit these?

[Anonymous]

Yes I did use a press because I had access to one. I did however start by using a vice and that seemed to work OK as long as you can keep it all square. However it was a lot easier using a press.
I could probably put the whole of the work I have done whilst changing the rear silent blocks on the forum if it you think it would be of help to others, probably as a project,what do you think.

[Anonymous]

You HAVE to 🙂

It is the only job I have not done yet 😉

cheers
Ian

[Anonymous]

Hi

It would be great if you could I will be doing the same in the next couple of weeks.
The car is completely stripped, if there is something else a people are interested let me know.

[Anonymous]

All items are now painted and ready for reassembly, I thought a picture of the items that make up the assembly would be useful for people contemplating replacing the silentblocks!

[Anonymous]

During the process of replacing the silent blocks several specialist tools and jigs are advised in the service book. Several of these I have made and have proved very useful. Reading the manual, after assembly of the items in the above photograph the end ring nuts have to be tightened in excess of 180ft lbs. I did not fancy using a c-spanner as I could not monitor the torque so I have modified a socket to fit the nut and also it can be used with my existing torque wrench.

[Anonymous]

[attachment=7:1aqzq0wy]IMG_0359.jpg[/attachment:1aqzq0wy]I have attached a series of photographs to show the assembly of the silent blocks onto the link arm and getting the angle correct using the tool MR3336 which I had previously made.
The pictures have loaded a little out of order.Start withe the first then go from the last backwards.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE SPLINES IN THE HUB TOWARD THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR!
I hope these help

[Anonymous]

Have managed to borrow a suitable torque wrench to tighten the ring nuts to and I quote ‘a minimum tension of 25 mpg (180foot pounds).
I would not have managed to hold the silent block holders in the correct orientation if I had not made the jig MR 3336

[Author]

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