Traction Owner’s Club › Forums › Forum Archive › Traction Owners Club Forum › Your Project › 1952 Paris built Normale RSJ 834
Insulating the roof area does seem like a good idea if you have the headlining out.
I did leave the old insulation in as at that point I was starting to get a little demoralised.
But I am doing the same to my little 4CV before putting in the head liner……. but yesterday I forgot to shut the bonnet properly – I soon found out when it hit the windscreen with such a bang. I now have a bonnet that looks like it has been cut in half with an axe…. not happy 🙁
@tripyrenees wrote:
I did leave the old insulation in as at that point I was starting to get a little demoralised.
But I am doing the same to my little 4CV before putting in the head liner……. but yesterday I forgot to shut the bonnet properly – I soon found out when it hit the windscreen with such a bang. I now have a bonnet that looks like it has been cut in half with an axe…. not happy 🙁
Not surprised you got demoralised with all the work you did. I am doing very little compared to you and am to say the least fed up with it already. I love doing the work but it seems it is not just doing what is in front of you but a whole list to get to that point. You do not realise how big these cars are until you start rubbing down and see how much paint will be needed. I am looking at around 8 litres of top coat.
Sorry to hear about the bonnet, are they easy to get? I did the same with a MK1 Escort Mexico which was so costly I still shudder.
@bazessex wrote:
Sorry to hear about the bonnet, are they easy to get? I did the same with a MK1 Escort Mexico which was so costly I still shudder.
I just dropped it off at a local carrosserie (about 1 km from my house). This is a new guy and he said he could do it for €100 cash as I supplied the paint. So if all goes well, he may get more of my business, like repainting the Traction and the 4CV.
@bazessex wrote:
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New engine mounts. Seem to work and much less transfer to the body. Will need to road test more before saying a total success.
Yes, just done mine, makes everything feel a lot firmer, and noise transfer is definitely a lot less. My volute springs were very sloppy and the rear mount bumped inside its mount on sharp deceleration and the gear lever would wobble up and down alarmingly in the dash. I have also been around with some sound insulation, which has taken some of the harsher engine sounds away.
@norustplease wrote:
@bazessex wrote:
[attachment=0:1pfxq4fd]20160315_173016__1458076825_42631.jpg[/attachment:1pfxq4fd][attachment=1:1pfxq4fd]20160313_204429__1458076776_70016.jpg[/attachment:1pfxq4fd]
New engine mounts. Seem to work and much less transfer to the body. Will need to road test more before saying a total success.
Yes, just done mine, makes everything feel a lot firmer, and noise transfer is definitely a lot less. My volute springs were very sloppy and the rear mount bumped inside its mount on sharp deceleration and the gear lever would wobble up and down alarmingly in the dash. I have also been around with some sound insulation, which has taken some of the harsher engine sounds away.
What mounts did you use?
I used the mounting kit from CAS. Very expensive but fitted okay although getting the threaded plates into the mounting cups was a bit of a fiddle. I can see how, with a bit of ingenuity, something could be made up a lot cheaper.
The instructions are a little simplistic and I am going to put a thread under tech torque showing how I did it and giving some views on how the car now drives.
I did look at the option of buying ready made solution but the price put me off. I have drilled through the bottom of the chassis bracket and put a washer and nut rather than use a plate.
Walter Rey still has some of the original design (as per Floating Power) Silentblock engine mounts out in Switzerland: e mail w.rey@gmx.ch and I have just been quoted 130 Sfr including postage to the UK.
He will be at Citromobile on Holland 07.05.2016 if anyone is going there.
@bazessex wrote:
I did look at the option of buying ready made solution but the price put me off. I have drilled through the bottom of the chassis bracket and put a washer and nut rather than use a plate.
They are expensive and drilling through the bracket and using a nut is a good idea.
I think that the conversion is well worth it and a couple of shortish drives in mine have left me with a car that feels much more solid and smooth in normal driving. You could rock my engine from side to side by hand before doing this.
One of the springs on mine was broken so engine was lopsided. I paid £8.00 for two mounts and another £5.00 for some steel and bar to make up spacer and adjustment.
@bazessex wrote:
One of the springs on mine was broken so engine was lopsided. I paid £8.00 for two mounts and another £5.00 for some steel and bar to make up spacer and adjustment.
Come on, stop teasing us…. photos please (next job for me for sure)
@tripyrenees wrote:
@bazessex wrote:
One of the springs on mine was broken so engine was lopsided. I paid £8.00 for two mounts and another £5.00 for some steel and bar to make up spacer and adjustment.
Come on, stop teasing us…. photos please (next job for me for sure)
I will take some pictures this weekend. Been busy making carpets the last couple of days. All cut and test fitted so now off to have the edges all whipped. All new felt for the floor has been cut too. Bloody paying work keeps getting in the way of working on the car.
Here are a few pictures of carpets and dash.
Very nice work.
I had one small front section whipped for my 4L and it cost me a fortune, near enough the price of a whole carpet set. So I have been reluctant to go that route again even though I am in the same position as you for my 4CV.
Let us know if it is cost effective.