1952 Paris built Normale RSJ 834

@tripyrenees wrote:

Very nice work.

I had one small front section whipped for my 4L and it cost me a fortune, near enough the price of a whole carpet set. So I have been reluctant to go that route again even though I am in the same position as you for my 4CV.

Let us know if it is cost effective.

Been quoted £3.00 a metre for the whipping in matching cord. Carpet was £40.00 so it may work out cheaper. My main reason for using this carpet is it is hessian backed 80% wool and 20% nylon. It is also nice and thick plus stain proof.

@Den Hewitt wrote:

I am surprised it is that price for whipping cut shapes, I would have expected it to be dearer.

Yes, I know the shop owner. Annoying thing is I know someone else who would have done it for free but they are on a world cruise for the next year.

I’ve been following this with interest. Replacing the volute springs with rubber blocks is a more sensible way of locating and supporting and engine. But I don’t trust the brackets, at least not those in my car. I have a big-bodied car – the brackets are longer and much more spindly looking than those on a Legere (hence there would be much more room to do the job). One of my brackets looks a bit bent. I’m not brave enough to have the engine just supported by them! I had an engine mount fail in another (different) car a while ago and it caused mayhem. I shall continue to watch.
Chris

I do still have doubts about the engine brackets a bit. But I then thought they have done the job for 63 years and in reality they are not doing anything different now to what they have always done. Yes removing the rear mount does risk the engine dropping if a bracket breaks but the chances are slim. When I take the engine etc out next winter I may look at trying to work out a fail safe bracket at the rear.

The new rubber mounts are not fully ‘solid’ when fitted and do have some movement when you pull at the engine so should not be any worse than when the engine sat on Veloute springs.

On the Walter Rey and C.A.S. ones you can wind the nuts up and down and level the engine at the rear, just like you would when using the original rear rubber block

When you look at the rear block in the cover you can see there is not a lot of clearance so it’s going to transfer vibration, but if you want a ‘safe bracket at the rear’ you could always cut the rubber mount down by say 10-15mm on each side then put it back to act as a stop in the unlikely case a mount arm snapped?

[attachment=0:1ufyxz8b]Rear_Mount_Rubber.jpg[/attachment:1ufyxz8b]

BTW the rubber replacements have been in use for 8+ years now and I haven’t seen any report of engine side mount brackets breaking allowing the engine to drop?

Got the chance to properly try the new engine mounts out today on ‘Drive It Day’. Went from Tynemouth Priory along the ‘Coastal Route’ up to Warkworth and back and they do make a difference to engine noise and vibration in the cabin.

@NormanAnderson wrote:

Dave, I’m intrigued to know. Are you running it with or without the rear block, or did you ‘trim’ the rear block?
Norman

No rear block is fitted. Graham Handley has had the same mounts for 5 years and has no rear block. He went to the 80th in France and has done many miles without one.

Nick Hopkinson has them fitted as well and had no problems other than getting room to get the 6v starter motor out on his Legere, but that’s no different to having Volute springs on the small bodied cars 🙄

Time is marching on so a change of plan.

Summer is fast approaching and I am intent on using the car this summer so I have had a major rethink on where I will be spending time on the jobs needed to drive it.

Obviously must finish the new wiring etc but I am putting the power steering conversion back until the winter. I am around halfway on the respray of the main tub and doors, I have not touched the wings so far and am tempted to leave them again until the winter. Carpets are done and the seats are still in original condition so may just use them this summer. Being honest the seats are fine and in fairly good condition so changing them was really only for looks.

In the past I would have carried on and just thought oh well I will drive it next year but since my stroke I have realised tomorrow is a luxury many never see. So I am going to start putting it back together and just make sure it is reliable and safe for now.

Perfect plan – I did not have a choice with mine but I have not touched the paintwork yet as I have not decided yet if it will be done at all (lots of people say leave it as it is).

But I am doing the same now with my 4CV – I want to be able to drive my cars all the time only have them off the road to do a particular mod or project. So doing you car as you are is the best way.

Plus you will get a feel for how the car will drive without the power steering and then feel the benefit afterwards….. I don’t know how a normal traction feels like as I have not driven one without power steering 😉

Agree…. don’t leave it as long as these guys they feature on CAR SOS