1952 Paris built Normale RSJ 834

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  • #6757
    Anonymous

      [attachment=1:od5d1ssl]20160202_182913__1454530156_63567.jpg[/attachment:od5d1ssl]

      [attachment=1:od5d1ssl]20160202_182913__1454530156_63567.jpg[/attachment:od5d1ssl]

      Got these to make moving the car easier.

      #6758
      Anonymous

        Den, the first replacement master cylinder was from Franssen, the second from CAS. So far the second is behaving. Luck of the draw I guess? I am a little more cautious with brake application force now. Interested to hear that others have had problems and quality might be an issue.
        Peter

        #6759
        Anonymous

          Time to bite the bullet and fit the new power steering. Going for a different approach in that I hope to replace the entire column except for two inches coming through the floor. I want to have a collapsible column but intend to keep the look of the original. Will it work? I hope so. The new power steering unit is from a Vauxhall Corsa and it will not be welded to the existing column so should be a easy replacement in the future should it be needed. I have removed all the black bracket and ground off the sliding connection. I will keep you posted on failure or success.

          #6760
          Anonymous

            [attachment=2:19pvdg6x]20160221_151926__1456086065_26105.jpg[/attachment:19pvdg6x][attachment=2:19pvdg6x]20160221_151926__1456086065_26105.jpg[/attachment:19pvdg6x]The petrol has always looked muddy and brown so today I took the tank off and cleaned it out. Got around a pound of rust scale and sludge out of it.

            The tank itself seems pretty solid.[attachment=2:19pvdg6x]20160221_151926__1456086065_26105.jpg[/attachment:19pvdg6x]

            A good clean and treatment plus a coat of primer it looks a lot better.

            #6761
            Anonymous

              That is looking good – I had to replace my tank as it has large holes where they shouldn’t be and I cannot trust my welding for such an important task 😉

              I did do the treatment thing with my much smaller 4CV tank.

              Were your sender units OK in there?

              #6762
              Anonymous

                The gauge did work so I presume yes. It does look like the sender has been replaced as it has a plastic float. The pick up pipe was well blocked, I am surprised any fuel got through. There was a small area of corrosion on the breather pipe but I fixed that.

                #6763
                Anonymous

                  Barry, probably sounds like a dumb question, but how did you go about getting the rubbish out of the tank?
                  Mine looks ok(ish), was going to clean the exterior and paint. After seeing your pics, I’m now not so sure!

                  #6764
                  Anonymous

                    I took the tank off and put a small amount of petrol in and gave it a good shake. I then gave it a few gentle thumps, shook it some more and emptied it out through the filler neck. Repeated it a couple of times until no more rubbish came out. I then removed the sender and pick up. If I did it again I would have removed them first. I then used some rust treatment and then some tank lining liquid to seal the inside. My tank seemed in pretty good condition really.

                    #6765
                    Anonymous

                      On the subject of tanks, I’m going to replace mine as there is a strong petrol smell when 1st filled, it’s not from the pickup or sender so could be the overflow, but the cost of a professional refurbishment v simply replacing with a new one was a no brainer for me (plus I want to keep the car off the road for as short a time as possible).

                      What I have found out today when the new one arrived is that the bottom of the gauze on the pickup strainer sits circa 1.5cm above the bottom of the tank, so that’s circa 7.5% of the tank volume.

                      If the tank is a maximum 50 litres (it’s what it’s marketed at) then potentially 3.75 litres of petrol is always unused as the pickup won’t reach it and will pull air.

                      The pickup only reaches 18.5cm down from the tank top when you factor in the rubber gasket and the tank is actually 20.0cm deep internally.

                      The new tank looks the same as the image Baz posted, but the tank (leaking as well) in Michael Broadbent’s Slough Lt15 is of a different construction (should have taken a picture for comparison….)

                      #6766
                      Anonymous

                        @OSL282 wrote:

                        What I have found out today when the new one arrived is that the bottom of the gauze on the pickup strainer sits circa 1.5cm above the bottom of the tank, so that’s circa 7.5% of the tank volume.

                        In contrast to that, I have been working on an issue with my new 4CV for the past month. Overtime I trotted up the road I would break down. It was fuel starvation for sure – changed out the pump, carb, tubes and that was after checking for blockages in the tank and removing the pickup and placing it in a jerry can and running the car fine. I was going crazy, thinking the Gordini engine was using more fuel than the pump was capable of. I was just about to buy an electric pump when I decided to go through it all again and removed the tank.

                        I pulled the pickup pipe and fattened up the gauze as it was a little bent. Placed it back into the tank and noticed it was sitting proud. I measured the pickup pipe and it was ½ cm longer than the depth of the tank and hence it was sitting directly on the bottom and closing up the hole – so it let enough fuel through for idle but under pressure it just was not enough. I trimmed the pipe and it flows perfectly now with the first successful road test yesterday. So I thought I had learnt my lessons regarding new parts when I did my Traction – but I have just had a very time consuming reminder.

                        Good call on the new tank – I did the same for my Traction.

                        #6767
                        Anonymous

                          I thought something was missing from the end of the pick up pie and now I know it was a filter. I presume it was removed because it kept getting blocked. I will measure the pickup pipe now out of interest as to where it will come in the tank. I am fitting a electric pump and inline filters so will not put one back in the tank. The breather pipe on top of my tank did have a couple of minor rust holes at the end but I have fixed them now.

                          #6768
                          Anonymous

                            New pickup pipe complete with filter was circa 30 euro from Fransens

                            #6769
                            Anonymous

                              @OSL282 wrote:

                              New pickup pipe complete with filter was circa 30 euro from Fransens

                              Yes I saw that. Mine seems ok just no filter and to be honest I would have removed it anyway. In line filter much easier to get to.

                              #6770
                              Anonymous

                                I have a similar but very serious juddering occasionally with my nearside front wheel when braking. At first I thought that the wheel was wobbling and that there was a problem with the tie rod or driveshaft but I cannot see anything wrong. The thing is that it happens and then returns to normal and then a couple of miles later is happens again when braking. I cannot remember if the brake shoe linings are riveted or bonded so I am going to take the front drum off as there is a possibility that a bonded lining has come adrift and is moving around the drum until it jams.

                                #6771
                                Anonymous

                                  @Den Hewitt wrote:

                                  I have a similar but very serious juddering occasionally with my nearside front wheel when braking. At first I thought that the wheel was wobbling and that there was a problem with the tie rod or driveshaft but I cannot see anything wrong. The thing is that it happens and then returns to normal and then a couple of miles later is happens again when braking. I cannot remember if the brake shoe linings are riveted or bonded so I am going to take the front drum off as there is a possibility that a bonded lining has come adrift and is moving around the drum until it jams.

                                  I would suspect a brake lining being loose. Could also be contaminated.

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