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I was thinking the same for the numberplate light – I will search for some. These rest I will keep as bulbs for now as costs are rising rapidly with this project π₯
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What should I expect to see at the output of there sender. When I put an ohmmeter across it I get around 188 ohms but no real change when the sender is activated. Is it a tiny change . In comparison the new units is about 250 ohms but again little change on movement.
There is an item in the Tech Doc section on the main site re fuel gauges and testing for resistance Ian – Volume 28 – 2003-4 issue 5 (Nov-Dec) http://traction-owners.co.uk/members_only/technical_articles.shtml
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I wish to hell I saved my original float unit. The one I got from Depanoto in the 8os was rubbish. I did get one from the club spares that works reasonably well but did need some fiddling with the arm before it would work with any accuracy.
Right, I think I will try and make the original work then π
So yesterday I started on the engine “properly” π
I received my new gaskets for the piston barrels and duly inserted them and measured the tolerances and all seems good. I then decided to fit the head in place before flipping over the engine. In the 15/6 English manual it says to do it this way and it makes more sense. Although I think I may have a job flipping it over with the extra weight π
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So now I need to prepare the head. My new coolant tube arrived along with new core plugs. So with a little more cleaning I fitted the pip easily pointed the holes downwards and then sealing (glueing) each end with ultra blue. I also flared the end of the pipe at the water pump end, hoping it won’t move too much.
[attachment=1:4uxkwwe9]P1060985.jpg[/attachment:4uxkwwe9]
And fitted all the new core plugs that I had to remove to get rid of the coolant pipe. Slightly easier than removing them π
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And of course in between these jobs I am finishing off the painted of the floor panel I replaced as well as getting the underneath finished off.
So after sealing all the seams and the edges with polyurethane weld seal I painted it all with rust eater and then primer.
[attachment=1:qfplkohx]P1060988.jpeg[/attachment:qfplkohx]
Then a nice top coat of satin black just to make it tidy and for the underlay and carpet to sit on π It is starting to look like a car again in side.
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So back to the head preparation. I had read about the valve seals needing to be installed just below the split collets and in my gasket pack there were new valve seals. I cannot remember seeing these before when I sent the head to be cleaned, surfaced and new valve seats fitted. They also fitted the new guides and springs. I have a sneaky feeling they did not bother with the seals. I checked number 1 and was correct nothing.
So after putting together a Heath Robinson rig to remove the valve springs I inserted the new seals just under the split collects – so an hour or so just getting me back to square 1. Only close inspection of the head, I don’t think the company actually did anything other than install new valve seats – I am pretty annoyed but if I went back the Frenchies would just sling their arms in the air and “c’est la vie” πΏ
Here is what the head looked like when I got the car
[attachment=2:2vqkvdfq]P1060083.jpg[/attachment:2vqkvdfq]
I stripped down the rocker shaft
[attachment=1:2vqkvdfq]P1060992.jpeg[/attachment:2vqkvdfq]
And prepared the head for docking π Nice new gaskets and placed the push rods in place.
[attachment=0:2vqkvdfq]P1060994.jpeg[/attachment:2vqkvdfq]
On with the rocker shaft all cleaned up. Took some time cleaning out the shaft and making sure all the oil passages were good – I have read a lot on this subject lately. π
[attachment=2:ff3uuf2y]P1060995.jpg[/attachment:ff3uuf2y]
Looking more like an engine – the cam shaft pulley is fitted and the valves seem to be going up and down in some sort of sequence.
[attachment=0:ff3uuf2y]P1060996.jpeg[/attachment:ff3uuf2y]
And now the upturn of the engine – bloody hell it is heavy, but luckily my wife was passing the garage and I whistled her in π
[attachment=1:ff3uuf2y]P1060999.jpeg[/attachment:ff3uuf2y]
And while all that was being done my under floor had a coat of primer and is drying nicely. Stone chip will be adorned tomorrow and then I can get the car back on the lift and off the axle stands.
[attachment=0:3tyo1isx]P1060997.jpeg[/attachment:3tyo1isx]
I got the under floor finished with the help of my wife, Julie. So as the menial tasks were being taken care of I could get on with the more important engine build π
[attachment=2:blyt5mdi]P1070002.jpeg[/attachment:blyt5mdi]
Also allowed me to have 3 coats of stone chip applied as she had plenty of time π
I actually went onto clean all the nuts and bolts and try and figure out where it all came from. I did put it all in tea tins with labels but the individual pieces are taxing my brain a little. Although I did find out about one being the Time Chain lubricator – I just though it was a spare bolt π
[attachment=1:blyt5mdi]P1070006.jpeg[/attachment:blyt5mdi]
And now onto the important bit – the engine.
[attachment=0:blyt5mdi]P1070007.jpg[/attachment:blyt5mdi]
So when I come to put in the crank seal assembly the rubber seal is a little short. Now is it supposed to be this length and I need to stretch it or is it just too short. I was going to close it together and superglue the ends to make a complete rubber ring. I have sent a message to CAS in the Netherlands to find out.
[attachment=1:1jc7jy74]P1070009.jpeg[/attachment:1jc7jy74]
This is the timing chain end and this will not meat the crankcase surface at all.
[attachment=0:1jc7jy74]P1070010.jpg[/attachment:1jc7jy74]
If the engine has the original oil thrower fitted then I don’t that ‘seal’ is used. I think it’s part of a modification kit devised by CTA which some have fitted, but not all successfully
Hopefully someone will be along to clarify shortly but I know I have a similar seal sat in a box unused from my engine rebuild last year………………………….