Traction Owner’s Club › Forums › Forum Archive › Traction Owners Club Forum › Your Project › 1955 Traction 11B "Barn Find" Project
Yes, exactly like the photo from CTA above.
It looks like I have the 11D crankshaft in a perfo crankcase.
I thought (and could be mistaken) that the 11D had a 5 bearing crank and from your pictures, yours is only a 3 bearing Perfo block
The original Perfo Crank has an oil trower on the crank where yours has the knurled section so looks like Citroen did change the oil thrower type on late TA engines to that of the upcoming D series cars
Just goes to show that not everything you read is correct with a Traction and it needs someone with specialist knowledge to explain this one properly
Right, this is the baffle unit I have and my engine is a Perfo engine but from the 12th April’55 – so citroen did mix up the parts towards the end of the Perfo it seems.The previous owner did not do any work on the car from 1967 so if the original owner had any repairs down it was in the first 12 years of its life. Very strange ๐ฏ
I was sent this through by Peter Larsen of CTA explaining the procedure on fitting – if only I knew before it would have been finished – but you have to learn somewhere, right ๐
I am going to try and get it repaired as I cannot find a replacement anywhere at present – hopefully a few phone calls tomorrow might find something but the per equivalent is in excess of โฌ100 so maybe 30mins in a weld shop might be cheaper.
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What is that strip in figure 1? I’ve always been confused about that. โ
…………..
On the oil baffle issue I have a couple of option – Andrew Burnett has found one that I can have but it means breaking an engine for it. So tomorrow I will look for a TIG welder and see if I can repair it.
The procedure I have now will help me install it (I will make the 0.1mm shim by cutting up a coke can ๐ )
So while I wait for this to all happen I carried on with the interior of the car – firstly I took out the head liner – I just hope it goes in OK, it was quite a task (dirty one at that to remove it)
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I also took out the windscreen as I need to repaint the dash and it just makes sense to remove it now. The windscreen surround (on the car) is like new without a spec of rust to be seen. The seal around the windscreen frame was harder than rock and it took a while to remove this (as well as the hinges which had rusted on, I have modified these to use stainless bolts instead of the flat head screws)
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The headliner came out in one piece but with a bucket full of rods, screws and edge strips.
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The new one is a little cleaner than this one – above is perfect, no corrosion and not much evidence of mice, some, but not much ๐ The wooden rails are fine and the roof mounted heat/sound proofing all looks good, old, but good so not going to touch that.
I even got the wife in helping – we scraped all the bitumen off the inside of the floor, under the rear seat and the boot. What a crappy job.
I have found some cracks in the base where I think the last owner overloaded the car with his mates. He boasted to me that they had 11 in it when they visited the local ski station. He was so happy to tell me the exhaust manifold was glowing red ๐ฎ He came around this evening to have another look at the car he learnt to drive in. He asked me when it would be ready to drive again, adding 2 to 3 years… he was little shocked when I said my goal was before April ๐
Julie has already named the car ๐
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I am hoping all the dirty jobs are finished now – the dusty headlining is out. All of the bitumen and hessian mess has been stripped from the floor inside.
This took an age, using a heat gun and scraper. I tried paint stripper on parts but this did not work that well. Baby wipes after one heat wiped it to clean shiny metal but this was tough, so as this will all be covered with sound proofing and carpet I decided I did not need to strip this to shiny metal and a good coating of paint protection will suffice.
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I do need to hoover and suck out all the dust everywhere else though and wipe it all down spotless or maybe I will call the wife back in ๐
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The cord rope that surround the doors for the trim has been removed as well – this was a tough job and I was replacing it thinking it did not look that secure in the grooves. But it took an hour a door to remove including all the nails they used.
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I remember doing most of that Ian and like you, didn’t go back to completely ‘clean and shiny’ and used Hammerite ‘smooth’ to paint the floors etc. after making sure the seams were filled
Before you start putting things back together, make sure you remove the rear window, clean the glass and aperture and bond the glass back in otherwise your likely to get water leaking in which will eventually get the car back to where it is now…… Mine had rotted the headlining and wood surround
I used modern ‘Sikaflex’ windscreen/glass bond to secure mine back in, others have used fish tank sealant………….
Thanks for that – I was not going to remove it as it looked OK, although it is a little chapped on the outside. But I now will.
The band of leathery card that is stapled underneath the window that the headliner is stapled too, did you just re-use that or did you replace it with something else โ
When advised, do it straight away ๐ Just learnt that from the French TU forum when I got hammered by a member for not responding to his post within the hour. He went mad and deleted all his posts to me. Subsequently I told him that we were meeting up this Sunday for the 1st Regional TU meal in Toulouse – he has calmed a little, but wow, I was surprised by the reaction as to why I had not rushed home, opened the garage and measure the diameter of my main bearing within minutes of him asking the question ๐ ๐ ๐
So, just took out the back window, which was not at all how it looked. It was tatty but not sure it was letting in water, just yet (although it has been dry for the past 45 years). It was quite tough and a couple of sharp blades later it is out, cleaned and the frame has been treated with antirust.
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But what have you got in your back window – it is a shame I had to scrape it off ๐
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The frame on mine to attache the headlining was actually thin plywood, but the bottom half was gone.
I bought a new one from CTA ( Product Number 6920027 @ 33.82 EURO) http://www.ctaservice.nl/product/22316/ACHTERRUITLIJST-HOUT
but if you have a jigsaw and some 2/3mm ply you could make your own
Not the frame (yes I am making that as we speak…)
It is the long thin band at the back of the parcel shelf that is covered in vinyl and stabbed in the middle. ?
That horizontal ( I put “vertical” before for some stupid reason ๐ ) strip below the window can be made out of very heavy cardboard as original. One thing you must all do is caulk the seam where the rain gutters attach to the body above the doors. Water will leak in here as the gutters are sporadically spot-welded. I left mine, like the rear window to a pro who can do a far better job than I can. I tried gluing in the rear window on my Light 15 but gave up after it fell out for the third time and I had the glue all over me and the interior. Not fun! ๐ฟ Some jobs are best left the pros and these are 2 of them.