Traction Owner’s Club › Forums › Forum Archive › Traction Owners Club Forum › Your Project › 1955 Traction 11B "Barn Find" Project
It is like a big pop rivet but with a threaded core. They look good, but would need to buy the tool and the nuts. I think I will use a small hole cutter and then weld my captive nut to the rear of a large flange washer and then weld that washer into the same diameter hole that I will cut. Then at least it should fit and be a rigid section.
The rivnut would not work in this case as there is no real hole, it is split metal where the original nut has tried to pull through.
So back in the garage today after getting in from Paris this morning.
I bought some finishing touches to the car (even though there is along way to go, but priorities right 🙂 )
Got all the grill parts fitted now
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Fitted the new number plates too, first time they have been on since it has been in my name. Got them from the Retro Mobile show so was able to save on shipping. They sort of finish the back end off. I also fitted the boot seal and the rear window. Also the rubber edging strip on the rear valence ready for thew rear wings, when they arrive back, hopefully this week.
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Who was it that said, you can’t polish a turd…. well I beg to differ. The handles and other chrome work on this car were atrocious and I was going to ditch them as they looked awful. But I picked up a polishing wheel from the show and gave them a good 10 minutes with a course polish and then a fine polish and they have come up great. I won’t get rid of the pitting but they will last me for a while – I even polished the rusty petrol filler cap that was rusty as hell, which I picked up from a hoarse last weekend. (see picture above)
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Did you get that engine part you were collecting at Retromobile?
Yes I did but it is slightly different but it should work OK.
It was posted from the guy I bought it from to his friend who then brought it with them to Paris. I did the meet and exchange in aisle R 😀
Small world though these days
On with the steering. The instructions are not great when it comes to the photos as they are too small and dark. It would be nice to have a diagram but I worked it out in the end with a few emails back and forth to EZ Power Steering.
Got it bolted in and wired up
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It actually sits higher than I thought and is very close to the gear selector bars. Should be fine though. Only two holes need to be drilled.
I have also installed the main electrical box but only temporarily as I will remount this one I have put the carpet in. It is out of the way under the dash and all the screws will be hidden by the carpet with the smaller wires tucked behind.
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And finally I have a steering column back in the car. I tightened all the steering rack components and track rod ends and put the steering wheel on just to try it. Couldn’t feel much difference but then I think I might need to put the tires on the ground for that 😆
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I want to try and get the interior sorted as soon as I can to get it clean inside and all my “nice” things installed before they get tatty and dirty in the garage.
So on goes the trim rope which I have glued in place and tapped tightly with a hammer. Some of the difficult areas I have put a trim nail in place.
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Then I have started putting the grey door trim in place. I thought I could get away with a staple gun but the staples do not hold. So each fixing is with a trim nail and hammer. Long process but I got to use the staple gun on the wooden centre piece 😀
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I will add more securings once I have put the headlining strips back in.
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That is enough for today – but at least it has warmed up a bit.
What are the nails you are using? Rust-resistant, I assume?
Is anything rust resistant ?
These are from CAS and match the originals. The originals were rust coloured but still in tact as it took an age to pull them out.
Carried on with the door trims. This was quite time consuming and irritating when the nails did not penetrate the metal. But all in all, it is done.
I put in the head liner beading and the old cardboard. I also tried the arm of the rear seat and the side panel just to make sure I knew where the headlining should finish.
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Round the back and finished off the fuel tank connections and replaced the panel. Put in the sound proofing and strapped it all down with newly painted fixings.
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And now onto the headlining itself. I bought this from Renel a few months back and it was the cheapest out there. So I was wary of the quality but so far I am very impressed.
I had labelled all the rods so I just put them back in place and screwed them to the side walls.
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And no I have one very large tent.
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There is a trimming line marked which is pretty accurate. I am trying to work out the best way to fix it under the rear window (top of parcel shelf. I know how it should be done but it is quite a frustrating task. Will carry on tomorrow.
Thoroughly enjoying your restoration work.
When I did my interior I was advised by a certain London-based specialist to line (glue) the inside doors with sheet plastic to prevent ingress of water behind the door panels via all the cut outs. I did this although I made my panels out of thin ply instead of the original millboard so not that susceptible to damp.
I have also, after more advice, run some rubber door seal on the inside, upper edge of the door frames to stop water running off the gutter and finding its way into the car. This has stopped any water entering the car via the doors.
Have you glued the sound-proofing to the roof? If not you may find it will eventually sag onto the headlining material after time. I was doing a Slough car so fixings may be different.
Keep the great work up and keep posting!
When I took my 11B apart 30 years ago, there were the remnants of plastic sheet on the inner parts of the door frames, so it must be original. One thing I’ve done is use a self-stick weatherstrip, a half round item and installed it on the front and rear of the door posts. Everything helps. On the tacking strip around the doors I’ve used Monel staples to hold the windlace in place and so far, no rust stains since 1985.
@traction39 wrote:
Thoroughly enjoying your restoration work.
When I did my interior I was advised by a certain London-based specialist to line (glue) the inside doors with sheet plastic to prevent ingress of water behind the door panels via all the cut outs. I did this although I made my panels out of thin ply instead of the original millboard so not that susceptible to damp.
I covered mine with plastic held on by ‘Gaffa tape’ 😆 (it can be very useful – also wrapped the inner sides of the wheels over the rivets to contain air loss)
Out of interest is the 11B ‘Big boot’ floor different to the 11BL?
My BL has a panel above the fuel sender held in with 2 screws and a flap in the matting above that so it can be accessed if needed and I didn’t notice one in your pictures Ian.
“Gaffa tape?” I think I know what you’re referring to. On this side of the pond we call it the proper name, “Duck tape.” Actually a pretty good idea instead of fussing with plastic sheets.
😀 It has the brand name Duck Tape but I think it is actually Duct Tape, used originally in sealing metal ducting.
I had ordered some sticky back vinyl for the doors. Mine has grey vinyl on from when it was built but I could not save that at all.
Yes, the fuel tank fixings has a little panel and now you have reminded me I will cut a flap in the soundproofing so when I lift the carpet I can get to it.