Traction Owner’s Club › Forums › Forum Archive › Traction Owners Club Forum › Your Project › 1955 Traction 11B "Barn Find" Project
It has been another long day sitting in the car. The headlining was not as bad as I thought. It is quite a thick material so trying to stretch it was not so easy and I cam hoping it will hang nice over time. I did glue the loose roof sound proofing so hoping that will stay up there.
Inserting it under the side rails was the easiest part but the front window frame was a pain and I still don’t think it is correct. It has been a year since I took it off and I am not sure exactly where it is supposed to sit. It just doesn’t look right and was tight to fit. I will need to look at another car in detail and adjust as necessary.
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The side strips fit well and I am quite pleased with the colours – this is the first time we have seen the cream and grey together.
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And as we collected our seats the other day, I could not resist putting in the rear to see what it looks like. I am very pleased with the look. I know it is not original but this car was never going to be restored to the original interior. We wanted a little comfort and something a bit different (not much but just a little)
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I put in the interior light too – at first it didn’t work, then I turned the LED bulb around, then it did work. Then the switch didn’t work. I took it out, cleaned the contacts and while doing so worked out the mechanics. So it pulls out and pops back turning on. And then pull it again to turn it off and then it pops back again. I was trying to keep it pulled out and thought it was broken. Citroen did complicate the simplest of things π
@tripyrenees wrote:
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I put in the interior light too – at first it didn’t work, then I turned the LED bulb around, then it did work. Then the switch didn’t work. I took it out, cleaned the contacts and while doing so worked out the mechanics. So it pulls out and pops back turning on. And then pull it again to turn it off and then it pops back again. I was trying to keep it pulled out and thought it was broken. Citroen did complicate the simplest of things π
Yes, that switch had me confused for a while as well π
As for the windscreen trim at the top, mine doesn’t sit up tight either and there is a gap.
Installed the water temp and oil pressure gauge and hooked them up to the panel lights. Which then led to me to figure out why I had wired the panel lights directly to the 6 volts output and not to a switched supply from the lighting circuit – so a quick redesign and some wire switching (do love the simplicity of the connection strips) and the panel lights were connected to the rear light circuit and now come on with all the light scenarios.
But at the same time I was getting a short on the main battery supply to the ammeter. The connections on the ammeter had loosened and touching the side of the dash. But now it is all bolted in, the job was 10 times more difficult. But I managed to unbolt the ammeter and pull it out of the dash. Took it apart and added some more insulation and then tightened the bolts. Got it back in the dash and reconnected the main battery connections and all is good.
One of the dash panel lights exploded in my fingers splintering glass everywhere which led to blood everywhere….. what a day.
On and On and On as they say. So I am trying to get all the jobs done and out of the way to stop providing me with an excuse not to start on the engine rebuild. I think I am pretty much out of “other” job now. π
I put in place the rear seat arms and fixed them permanently. I also made good the rear parcel shelf as the vinyl I had cut to the template was a little short with my new headliner. All good now though.
I found the carpet set we bought from Retro Mobile…. not this year… but last year (nearly one of the first things we bought for this car π ). It is from Neoretro and is pretty good quality.
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It was a good half day fitting this carpet. The edges were the most difficult as the carpet is quite rigid so getting it to stay in place was a task. But I finally got the hang of it on the last piece π
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The back is starting to look better now – I am waiting on the sticky back vinyl for the doors before I put on the door cards.
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I also fixed the problem with the number plate light. It only came on when I opened and shut the boot lid. So led me to an earthing problem. I was a little miffed as I had run a dedicated earth wire to the lights. Put my meter on it and found no earth at all. The other end was so close to the connector but had not been connected – quick screw and all is fine π
I then went onto finish the install of the EZ Electric Power Steering system. The motor is all tucked away up inside the dash and was a little confusing to begin with to find a decent fixing for it. But after a photo or two from their tech support, it all clicked into place.
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The control box is too pretty to hide away so this is the only electrical item on show at the from of the car. Carpets fitted and even the original pedal covers cleaned up.
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So now it is time to get on and build this engine.
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I have only just come in – having a few issues today. I knew I would as soon as I started back on the engine π₯
So I fitted the oil return baffle that I got from Jasu (all the way from Finland). I started to follow the correct procedure for this part (which was emailed to me from CTA in Sweden). I cut my shim from a coke can which happens to be 0.1mm thick. Wrapped it around the oil return on the crankshaft as stated. But then the bolts for this part do not fit behind the flywheel flange. It is impossible.
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So back to the old procedure and follow a few more photos from an engine rebuild I found online. Fit the baffles first, then lower the crankshaft in and then fit the lower baffle to the main bearing cap and drop that on. Fit loosely and spin the crankshaft. Tighten the baffle halves and test the rotation of the crankshaft. It seems good now.
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So the part I have been waiting for, for so long is finally on the engine.
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I am working on the crankshaft at the moment (after fitting the oil return baffles).
I have followed the procedure for the adjustment of the lateral movement of the crankshaft and this is what I have.
Installed 3 thrust washers (shims) totalling around 0.23mm (these were already installed). With the main washer, timing pulley and nut tightened on and the crankshaft levered towards the timing case I have a gap of 0.5mm between the main bearing and the main washer. This is way beyond the 0.1 to 0.15mm that is in the book.
What can I do to rectify this?
The crankshaft is an 11D (the book I have is for the Perfo – is there a big difference in the tolerance? )
Another busy day today, and yes, I did post a couple of questions but then deleted them as I had worked through the problems (come on guys you should be there 24/7 π π )
While I was waiting I installed the front seats, the glove box and ash tray. So the interior is near enough done except for the door cards, which I am waiting for the sticky back vinyl for.
So onto the engine. I did have a little too much play on the crankshaft and probably still have but I removed the shims and once tightened to the correct torque the gap was just about there although I have been told the tolerance for an 11D is even tighter – I will keep this in mind for when I pull the engine again later this year. π―
I installed the crankshaft and the oil pump as well as all the end bearing seals. I fitted the timing chain and although not seen on the picture I also put in the after market chain tensioner from CTA.
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I am following the procedure to the letter. But trying to work out some of the terminology is quite tough as they assume you know all the parts off by heart π
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I put the sump cover back on too which was quite a task squeezing it over the rubber end seals but tightening each bolt in turn brought the cover to its final position providing a very good seal indeed.
I am quite happy so far with the engine but I have the domed pistons to look at next.
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And also how to turn this engine the other way up and get it on the bench – I have a plan so I will let you know if it worked or not tomorrow.
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Not happy π₯
There is something catching in the sump – the engine turns but at a certain point it goes very tight. When I was putting the sump on it felt it was pressing against the oil pump so I am wondering whether this is then pushing the oil pump onto the crankshaft….. so annoying.
Ca n anyone let me know how to check on TDC on piston No 1. I have the flywheel attached so can see the groove (normally for the pin) I can see the pistons but at which point is TDC on No1 and not No4 – I will need to do this for refitting of the oil pump when I unbolt the sump.
Thanks
Ian
At least I had one Traction on the drive today….. not mine though π
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My plan with moving the engine worked – so it is now the right way up on a stand.
But there is a slight knocking when I rotate the flywheel. I think the oil pump is fouling the crankshaft. So I will need to get back into the sump – big pain. I also will check the oil pump orientation as I am not 100% sure that it is correct. I though it was but looking upside down back to from tI may have got it 180 degrees out of sync. (this also powers the distributor). Any tips on how to do this would be welcome π
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I also checked the clearance of the pistons to the head. There is a slight scratch on all 4 pistons so they are fouling the edge of the head. But that is good to know as I was anticipating this due to them be domed. So I will take it to the machine shop in Toulouse for them to take out a few millimetres to give clearance.
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So now I have to wait again for the engine I went and collected the rear wings from the Carosserie. They are only finished in primer for now but he has done a decent job seeing as they were rusty pieces of crap when I gave them to him. So I put them on the car and fitted the rear lights. (I will remove the wings just to tart them up a little for now)
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So I had two issues, one the distributor timing will be 180 degrees out and I had a knocking in the crankcase when I turned the crankshaft.
So I had to lift the engine and remove the sump case (which was annoying as I had sealed it quite well but it came off quite easily in the end). I then rotated the crankshaft and “voila” it was just touching the oil pump.
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So I loosed then pointed bolt on the side of the crankcase and lowered the oil pump out. I then noticed something that is so obvious now – there is a locating hole in the side of the oil pump that the pointed bolt goes into (hence it being pointy I suppose). So I had pushed the oil pump in to much (by about 1 cm). So this then was too close to the crankshaft and it also misaligned the distributor timing (although I think I had it 180 degree out too, so I painted the short side with tippex).
Put it all back together and the engine spins for the first time in 43 years. I put the sump back on and the timing case and lowered the engine back onto the stand.
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I put 12 volts across the starter motor and the pistons went up and down. The small pleasures π π
Put a few other parts onto the engine and placed all the bolts where I think they should go in readiness for the gear box. But first I head to Toulouse tomorrow morning with my head to be machined for clearance.
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Haven’t seen a heat shield for the fuel pump before, was that on the car when you got it?
Not this particular one (this is a new part) but yes, originally it had one behind the fuel pump.
Here is the original.
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