1955 Traction 11B "Barn Find" Project

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@tripyrenees wrote:

ISSUE 2 – On dry start of engine i.e. plugs out and checking the oil pressure and on first start of engine and then a couple times more (Without Coolant) the oil pressure on my gauge ramped up to just above 2 on the scale. I put coolant in and restarted, but it struggled to start (could be anything) but the oil pressure is only just getting to 1 on the scale. What could have happened to reduce the oil pressure.

😕

When I overhauled my Morris 10 engine a couple of years ago, I had this. It turned out to be a small piece of debris, presumably dislodged during dismantling, that partially blocked the feed pipe to the gauge. Trying a separate gauge to the connection on the engine would prove this, but if you haven’t anything suitable, dismantle the pipe and blow it through and see what comes out.

Just to add, on my rebuilt engine (52 Perfo) I get 3.5- 4 Bar oil pressure when cold (it’s a Roger Williams Pump) so yours is way off.

@Den Hewitt wrote:

Issue 1.

Did you replace the Output Coupling Oils Seals?

Are the Output Couplings worn?

If the couplings are worn then you can use SKF Speedi Repair Kits part number 99146. I have used these. See my article in Floating Power Vol 25 2011 Issue 3 May/Jun.

Hi Den – this sounds very interested, I read your article. I have ordered a set of these speedi kits plus new bearing for the water pump.

So I can do this with out removing the gear box but then I will probably have to, to get the clearance from the drive shafts. Sort of goes back to my question of removing the gearbox in situ without the engine.

@OSL282 wrote:

Just to add, on my rebuilt engine (52 Perfo) I get 3.5- 4 Bar oil pressure when cold (it’s a Roger Williams Pump) so yours is way off.

I am assuming you have the standard retro fit oil gauge sold everywhere.

I needed to get the engine started just to see what really needed doing.

Quick question – is it easy enough to remove the gearbox with the engine still in – looks it but if there are any hidden quirks.

Thanks
Ian

I had a problem re starting the engine – bloody ran out of fuel didn’t it. 😆 😆

So this is what I have on my oil gauge – it is connected on the rear of the engine as described. Do I need more pressure ❓

[attachment=0:11w0amnv]P1070398.jpg[/attachment:11w0amnv]

How quick should the temperature gauge start reading. Engine was only on for 5 mins so hopefully more than that. I even tried out the gears and had the wheels spinning (on the lift) Not so sad now 😀

Yes, with that plug now in the hole (behind feel pump) I now have no oil leaks – it sort of scared me a little last night when oil was spewing everywhere. It looked at first glance to be the sump but of course the oil flowed downwards to the sump area and soaked on that 1 inch of gasket. I was tightening frantically not knowing there was a ¼ inch open hole above.

Doing my final checks before I start pulling it apart again – I think I need to put in that 3 watt charging light that Den suggested, my little LED is pulling much current (very good tip that I have had in my mind since reading that…. thanks)

If it’s over 2 bar (kg/mc2) at idle it’s not bad, when hot after a long run it will probably go to between 0.5 and 1.0 kg/mc2 (7-14 psi) at idle which Andy Burnett told me is fine……. Yours at 2.25 kg/mc2 is 32 psi

As for water temperature, there is no thermostat in the system, so it takes a mile or 2 before the gauge even moves, even in summer 😮

You’re getting there, I must say. You did mention that the leak from the gearbox diminished after a while and looking at the pictures, you likely have the original leather seals, which once soaked again in oil, may have swelled up a bit. I’d drive the car around for a while and maybe the leak will get to a point you can live with. But to fix it, it’s best to pull the engine right out and not mess with it in the car. Easy to damage the sump if you’re not very careful.