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Thanks for this – I will see how it goes once it is on the road.
But even though I cleaned up the pump and changed the filter parts it may need another going over. I can do this with the car in the air from underneath, hopefully.
Still waiting for parts to arrive for the water pump, the master cylinder and the exhaust. Once they are fitted I am out of the garage (fingers crossed).
EXHAUST FITTING
Just going back to fitting the rear silencer box of the exhaust. Where would you jack the car up from to do this.
I have just moved the arms over to the two rear jacking points and lifted the rear but the rear axle drops down below where the tail pipe should be. Other than backing up to some ramps to lift the car from under the wheels where do you raise the car.
What happens at the garage when they lift the car to change the tires etc, does the rear axle rest on top of the tail pipe ❓
Just preparing for the work ahead. 😯
Jack it from the trailing arms jacking point, (it’s pretty obvious when you look at it) 1 side at a time then put it on axle stands.
Don’t jack off the axle itself or your likely to bend it…….
BTW the rear axle shouldn’t move, only the trailing arms.
The axle is attached to the trailing arms though.
I have the lift on the jacking points but this still allows them to hang slightly. Not sure why as I have not touched this set up.
I will have another go but I did see this photo where he did jack from the axle and then used stands –
[attachment=0:27pugld9]P6200103.JPG[/attachment:27pugld9]
So it is OK to jack up using the cross member (axle) and then put in the axle stands (I have 6 tonne units)
……….
@Den Hewitt wrote:
Yes. Anyway just by looking at it you can see that it much stonger than the side jacking points. Not on the crosstube (traverse tubulaire).
That is what is confusing me from this photo – the hydraulic jack is situated below the cross member (is that what you are calling the crosstube ? ) with a groove in the top of the jack. Will this bend if jacked from the centre (I am assuming so)
As per my last comment – where does a garage lift the car from to change the wheels – does the cross member (crosstube ) rest on top of the exhaust if lifted from under the body? (mine does)
………..
Got you – but do you agree that if you lifted the car from under the body, the cross tube (‘I’ shaped cross axle) would rest on the tail pipe.
Just want to make sure mine is not wrong 😉
My new parts arrived today. The middle section of exhaust, new master cylinders, new spindle and turbine for the water pump, plus the seals and a couple of bleed nipples.
[attachment=1:3k3j9r29]P1070440.jpg[/attachment:3k3j9r29]
So on with the water pump first – the two spindles and turbine side by side. The new one is a lot better and is already attached to the spindle 😀
[attachment=0:3k3j9r29]P1070442.jpeg[/attachment:3k3j9r29]
Placed everything back on the engine and filled with coolant. Seems to be holding very well so far, not a spec of water coming out. Job Done 😀
The exhaust went on OK, I placed the rear on axle stands and bolted it on. It is not the best fit for an exhaust but it is solid and is not knocking. I thing the silencer box needs to be a little wider to fit nicely. Another Job Done 😀
But here is the Issue I have now – I put in the new Brake Master Cylinder – I bled each wheel in turn about 4 or 5 times. The pedal is slack, no resistance at all,as if there was a leak. I have checked and no leak – even the old master cylinder put the brakes on although it leaked form the front push rod.
But then the pedal goes solid – no movement at all. Then it releases and is spongy again with zero pressure i.e. zero brakes. I am using DOT 4 liquid. All the brake lines are new and as I said it worked perfectly the other day albeit the master cylinder leaked. So are there different types of master cylinder, could this be a wrong ‘un??
But no brakes didn’t stop me have a play. I actually drove him out of the garage under his own steam. Few near misses on the walls as this is a bloody big car compared to my little AZU van.
A few splutters from the exhaust, no leaks so far from the water pump and no visible oil leaks just yet.
This is the first time this car has moved for a long time. Just need it to stop now….. any ideas there 😕
[attachment=2:8vlwwn03]P1070445.jpeg[/attachment:8vlwwn03]
[attachment=1:8vlwwn03]P1070446.jpeg[/attachment:8vlwwn03]
[attachment=0:8vlwwn03]P1070447.jpeg[/attachment:8vlwwn03]
You did bleed the wheels in the proper order? RR, LR, RF, LF, correct? Did you get a solid squirt of fluid at each wheel? Did you adjust the brake shoes?
Yes, all of that. With the old master cylinder it worked great. I will strip it off again tomorrow and check it with the old one.
It’s a brand new master cylinder you have, right? I’ve tried rebuilding them and never had any luck. Wheel cylinders do OK, but not the master.
Yes, brand new.