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Cheers Den – I spoke with CTA and they sell the measured material. CAS (their spin off company) are doing a complete headliner but for €300 or so. Neo Retro do one also so I think I should be OK. I am going to take it down very carefully, as I have an upholsterer coming over on Saturday so he may be able to make one for me (if the price is right).
Lots of spare parts arrived this morning 😀 Lots to be getting on with now with rebuilding the front suspension system.
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While I was waiting I started cleaning the floor up a little. Looks like I have two patches of holes that need repairing.
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I will need to form some steel and get this done, but after I have the front suspension and wheels put back on as my car lift is right where I need to weld 😕
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No you have gone and done it. Yes, looking at it, it is probably better to put in a new floor. than trying to fabricate ridged patch panels I have asked José Franssen for a price and I have the CAS prices already (the Franssen one includes the 3 V sections).
What is the fastening kit you mentioned ❓ .
I am assuming the floor is spot welded in place and I need to drill these out, or is the fastening kit something else. ❓
Bit of a nightmare today. I started putting the upper swing arms back on. The to ball joints went in OK (well I say OK, they went in…. it has been a while since I took them out 😯 ). But I was having a right job with the bottom ball joints. There was a lot of play and I mean a lot of play. Until I realised I was missing the top bearing race which I now realise I had left in the lower swing arms when I did the exchange with Classic Automobile Services in Holland. Sent them an email and they are posting them back (after telling me they were in a bit of a state 🙁 ).
I carried on an installed the brake backplates and the flexi hoses just so the day was successful.
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I also put on the steering rack that I completed last night.
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Has anyone refurbished their Master Cylinder. The parts I received were slightly different to the originals (understandable) but I want to make sure I got it right. Specifically the rubber seal on the main shaft. It came in two pieces which looked to clip together. The old parts are above the new parts in the photo.
Let me know 🙂
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I’ve never had much luck redoing master cylinders. John Gillard told me that he doesn’t really do it anymore and it’s best to use a new one. It’s looking good!
@L.Lewis wrote:
I’ve never had much luck redoing master cylinders. John Gillard told me that he doesn’t really do it anymore and it’s best to use a new one. It’s looking good!
Hmm, whilst John may get the pattern cylinders from CTA etc. he gets his seals specially made in the UK and changes them before fitting to the car.
CAS just got back to me and said that the kit comes with two rubber seals for different types of Master Cylinder shaft.
So I only have to use one and not connect them together (they fitted quite well together 😀 )
Will try it out and if I crash I will buy a new Master Cylinder 😆
Just ordered the new floor from José Franssen – €80 plus shipping so I am happy with that and probably a lot cheaper than sourcing the metal and having it fabricated.
Looks like I just drill out the spot welds and then re weld the panel in. Better get on with it 😉
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My reconditioned radiator came back today, only waited since April…. lucky I am in no rush for it. I have emailed them though as the top cap is missing. 🙁
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Started on the brake lines too, got the engine bay finished and now waiting until I have done the floor and the rear axle for the rest. Now I know the parts for the master cylinder, I got that back together and installed.
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So I have made the decision to renew the floor up front. I ordered it from José Franssen of Belgium today and it is on its way. So to carry on with the dirty jobs first I stripped out the cross member. I started drilling out the spot welds but in the end it was easy to cut it out and I will put it back in with some angled steel., Will make it slightly stronger too, I hope.
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I cleaned up the floor – it it messy with thick tar under the carpets. I think I will leave the rear area as it has protected under the cross member very well.
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The new floor is 69.5 cm from the front so the cross member will sit over the join which will make it look today and gives me a little satisfaction that I took the decision to take out the cross member as I only looked up the size afterwards. The rusty floor goes to 65cm so I will have 4.5cm of spare.
Lungs full of dust and spattered with tar it is time for a shower 😀
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@Den Hewitt wrote:
When you talk about angled steel, that is what the floor plate fastening set is for.
To fix it to the cross member?
I should be able to whittle a couple of these up, as I said, I might go a heavier gauge to strengthen the floor specially as I am joining it in the middle.