1955 Traction 11B "Barn Find" Project

More cleaning today. I have the engine ready for its coat of RAL6020 green paint when I receive it from Restom on Tuesday (fingers crossed). I wanted to paint the interior but I think that will be too much flaffing and waiting around. The interior is not too bad anyway.

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The sump came up good and it seems a shame to have to paint it 😀

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In between cleaning I have to keep myself saine so I am starting on the refurb of the smaller parts to keep on top of it. So here goes with the distributor 😯

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I will first get everything working with eh standard distributor then try out the 1-2-spark electronic ignition.

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Also to add to Den’s post, firing order is 1 3 4 2 – when fitting the distributor with cylinder 1 at TDC using a standard ‘clock’ as a guide, the rotor arm on a normal points dizzy is at somewhere near 20-15 minutes to the hour i.e. pointing forward to the water pump, but with the 123 electronic you may find that with no 1 at TDC the rotor arm is pointing at somewhere near 5-10 past the hour – towards the timing chain end, so don’t panic and think your doing something wrong!!

What do you think ❓

Repairable or a new tank. It is only this patch that is rusty, the hole is big enough to have a look in and the rest of the tank looks solid enough but I can’t really tell for sure.

I am thinking with the cost of the repair then the treatment of the tank etc it may be cheaper to go for a new tank at €222. Anyone had a tank repaired and restored before.

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Cheers 😉

There is no fuel about or fumes, this must have been like this for some time. No I have started work on the rear I looked a little deeper to find this (well the wife pointed it out while I was doing the brakes).

I will drop it and cut that section out to have a better look.

I received some more info on the bottom ball joint. Originally Citroen put in a 0.05mm shim between the upper bearing race and the middle spacer. This was to allow adjustment later on when the ball joint wore a little and the shim could be removed. Both of mine still had the shim installed. But even with that removed there is not enough adjustment.

So I was advised to remove the middle spacer which acts as a conduit for the greasing and discard it. (new ball joints do not come with the inner ring spacer).

I first tried to smooth off the ball and the bearing race a little more using valve cutting paste and sticking the ball in the drill. It seems to have worked a treat.

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I then installed it without the middle ring spacer and voila – I have a much better fitting lower ball joint. But to make it better and easier to adjust (instead of inserting different size shims) I have ordered an after market adjuster cap to replace the existing ones.

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This should do the trick and even without it now it is nice and smooth with very little play now I have squirted the grease in there. 😀 😀

I then bolted them in tightly but not to any particular torque as these are only soft bolts I found in my drawer.

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I poured in the coolant to test the seal – but after a few minutes I got slow drips from a couple of the barrels. So first tempt has failed.
I have put in an email to a local guy to see whether he can help me with this task as it has bothered me for a while to get this right – it is important right 😀