Traction Owner’s Club › Forums › Forum Archive › Traction Owners Club Forum › Your Project › 1955 Traction 11B "Barn Find" Project
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Hi Den
Where can I find him
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@tripyrenees wrote:
Hi Den
Where can I find him
You can find a list of a lot of different suppliers with e mail addresses. phone numbers etc. on the main TOC website http://traction-owners.co.uk/services_directory.shtml
I would phone Roger, but do it at an ‘off peak’ rate time
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Good to know Den as when I was at Rogers earlier this year he was unsure of what was going to happen.
Yes, he replied to me giving me his son’s details.
He also mentioned using some O rings in addition to the gaskets. Has anyone used these and where about do they fit.
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Rubber O-rings? ❓
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I am flitting between jobs at the moment while waiting for a monster spares drop. Funny thing is that José Franssen waits to drive the packages over the border to France every two weeks to save on delivery. So it will be here next week (when I get back from the NEC).
I have stripped the rear brakes and hubs and taken the pads to be re-shoed and the drums to be skimmed. Even though they really didn’t need it, I think it is worth it.
So I cleaned all the parts as usual and stripped and rebuilt the master cylinders. Everything is ready to put back on the car when I get the shoes and drums back, well, first I have to sort out the back suspension system and get that cleaned, inspected and painted.
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On returning back from the Classic Car Show at the NEC with a bunch of new tools in my hand (why can’t France have Machine Mart) and a postbox full of spare parts arriving from José Fransson and CAS I was eager to get back to work on the car.
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My plan is to get the car back on its wheels before I start to tackle the floor. Firstly because I want to move it and secondly the car lift is exactly on the place I need to drill out and cut for the new floor.
So onto installing the new bottom ball joint adjuster cups. I was advised to install this aftermarket upgrade, one for ease of adjustment but also to get rid of the centre spacer between the bearing cups to allow for the wear over the years. These units went on like a dream compared to the struggle I had with the originals only to find I had no adjustment left. Job Done!!
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Now for the driveshafts which I have cleaned up, re-greaed and put on the new rubber boots. These were non-existent when I got the car. Installed the inner wheel bearing and then pulled through the stub axle and then tapped in the outer wheel bearing (all new from CTA). Hubs installed and ready to adjust the brakes.
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So the front suspension and drive chain is all now complete. Will need to be tightened all round and the locking tabs put in place but to roll the car round I think it will be fine. I do need to re-install the steering shaft which I will do as part of the EZ Power Steering upgrade.
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Ian, one thought before you do anything else in the engine bay.
Traction’s are notorious for throwing engine heat through the bulkhead into the cabin, which is not good in the summer, so you should consider some kind of thermal/noise insulation on the rear of the engine bay wall on the engine side (as well as the inside)
If you use something like ‘FatMat’ (cheaper version, but just as good as Dynamat) you can paint it when fitted and because the engine sits so far back it will be barely noticeable visually, but will help with noise/vibration and heat transmission into the cabin.
I did mine on the inside, including above the parcel tray where historically there was no insulation on a Traction, plus I did the floors and it does quieten the car down.
I have used an exhaust pipe “heat wrap tape” on the downpipe part of the exhaust to reduce the heat in the engine bay, seems to make a difference. It is hardly noticeable as most of the downpipe is behind the bodywork.
I know that Steve Wright had a lot of work carried out on his Grey 1954 Normale to ad soundproofing.