Anonymous
My Light 15 has a Clayton heater fitted. This is attached via brackets to the rear engine mount bolts.
Works pretty well once the car has been warmed up and the water is warm.
These heaters, similar to the Smith’s of the 1950’s, come in various configurations – de-misting tubes, copper in-out-let pipes straight or bent etc.
The take-off for the water supply is shown below – top and bottom radiator hoses with t-pieces.
Two flexible hoses enter the cab via the redundant “heater tubes” on the bulkhead.
(Messy cables are from the trickle charger!)
Anonymous
If you want a decent heater, look in a cold country like Canada or Sweden.
So Larry, at the risk of hi-jacking this thread away from Nigel’s original question, re the gasoline fired heater, what creates the vacuum and where do the combustion by-products go? A connection to the inlet manifold? So does combustion stop when the engine stops? Lovely bit of art deco.
Chris
Anonymous
This is Larry stepping in (as expected) with a plug for South Wind Heaters, you can look at http://www.southwindheater.com for more info, now how many can I put you down for?
I have to admit, that CTA heater looks pretty decent.
Anonymous
Hi,
We’re probably talking here about the round heater that Clayton offers:
http://www.bramclassauto.com/services/products-for-sale/south-wind-gas-heaters/ – They don’t put any connection information on their website.
CTA Sweden offer a different heater – which is sold out – but it would connect the same way and they do show how to connect it – with photos and Swedish captions.
http://www.ctaservice.se/delar/heater/heater.htm
I ‘m expecting Larry to step in here with a plug for the gasoline fired heater.
http://www.bramclassauto.com/services/products-for-sale/south-wind-gas-heaters/
Chris
Anonymous
I haven’t one fitted to my car, but I have seen them connected into top and return hoses. The connection is usually achieved by cutting the hose and inserting either a tee piece soldered up out of brass tube, or a tee adaptor from someone like Car Builder Solutions. You can use the air duct entry point in the bulkhead to route your hoses to a unit under the dash.
Anonymous
Anybody fitted an aftermarket cab heater and if so where did you take the water connections from, comments would be most welcome.
Anonymous
Use a LOT of heat and the biggest puller you have. It will come. There’s no other way. Years ago I did that on my 11B and melted the rubber bush in the column but replaced it with a length of heater hose. It’s a pain but it will come off.
Anonymous
I have all the parts to make a heater, I will probably use the vent in front of windscreen to draw air in and try to hide the rest behind the dash. I will use small electric heater for demisting should it be needed.
Anonymous
I have a period heater to fit some time. Again the fan is 12 volt. But I also have a 6 volt one waiting to go into my Legere.
Anonymous
I am just being lazy with the power steering. You made me realise I forgot about the heater, might even go for air con but I think that may be a step too far.
Anonymous
Thanks for the info Den… just what I didn’t want to hear!
That must be about the worst piece of car design I have heard of since learning that the bulkhead on a Jensen interceptor had to be torched to get at the wiper motor (or was it the heater?)
Anonymous
That is an oil filter that takes a roll of toilet paper. Easy to install, you just need to drill and tap the plug at the rear of the main oil gallery. The gauge tees into the line just before the filter. I put the filter discharge where it is as I don’t think the rocker arms get a lot of oil so I figured it ought to help. A dry sump system does sound intriguing, though. Don’t tell anyone but that green is for Austin-Healey Sprites. I had no problem putting the gauges in that spot, that’s where they are in my 11B. Besides, that area looked pretty bare. Funny thing, there is no heater control there, the opening has the original plug in it but there is no rubber flap for it.
Anonymous
Hi Mick, yes I have the lever knob and that works fine. Above that I have the parking light switch. But to the left of the heater knob I have a hole with the remains of what looks like a bulb holder or switch. I will be taking all the bits out of the dash in the next few days to rub the panel down.
Anonymous
That left lever is to open the heater flap. It should be a small rod going down to the circular inlet of the heater.
Anonymous
Mine has an oval “D” knob for the starter, an oval knob on the glove box and there is the “egg timer” turn signal switch in the centre of the dash. The choke knob is round but still not original and I have a brand new oval knob (with Bowden cable) to replace it. I noticed tonight that the ceiling light has a switch on the unit itself, so that settles that item. AXO turn signals are on the sides of the roof where they should be and I have new lenses to replace them. For the front turn signals, I have amber lenses which I will paint the rear part with flat black to look proper; I just need to order the sockets and rubber underlay pads for them. It also has the extended round thing that holds the starting crank, the kind that protrudes through the grille, that will be removed and replaced with the original part which I already have. I have some decent aluminium chevrons which will replace the pitted chrome plated ones. Den, do you want them? I wont be using them. I plan to install fuses for everything and 6-volt relays for everything except the turn signals and wipers. I will likely install a South Wind Heater. It will be about 3 weeks before I can bring it home and then the real fun project will begin.
