Is it still a project when I haven’t done anything yet

[Anonymous]

Do you all have a magnetic sump plug?
If you don’t there is a really simple way of creating one.
There is what you need:

1 x hard disk from a PC (The older the better because the magnets have been reduced in size to save money)
Open the casing and remove the “Actuator”

[attachment=0:15lxgi3c]hard disk.JPG[/attachment:15lxgi3c]

Underneath it you will discover that it has a very strong “rare earth” magnet.

Put the actuator in a vice and use a fine chisel, or screwdriver to separate the magnet from the Actuator.

Take great care with the magnet and don’t put it near anything electronic – don’t put it near anything metal as you may find that your fingers get nipped.

Fitting: Place the magnet on your sump plug and that’s it!

When you next change your oil just look at the “crud” that is on the sump plug.

If you don’t have access to a PC Hard disk, I can supply these magnets for the cost of postage.

[Anonymous]

@bazessex wrote:

I think that is a oil filter. Looks like it returns the oil via the rocker cover. I am looking at fitting a filter but the design of the engine means it is not going to be a easy task. Currently I am thinking of going for a dry sump system with a external pump, but very early stages for that.

Just a thought but the Perfo engine is a 1930’s design that relies on ‘Splash’ feed for the cylinder bores and little ends, so how would a ‘dry sump’ system work for that?

[Anonymous]

Dave you beat me to it. I was going to say that I have been told I may need to fit a spray bar to lubricate the bottom of the bores etc. I am now tending to favour the route of a external filter fed by a electric pump while keeping the original pump to lubricate the engine. One advantage of this is that it could also perhaps be used as a cooling aid.

[Anonymous]

That sounds like a plan.

I assume you would take oil from the sump, rather than from the end of the gallery where the pressure gauge outlet is taken from, filter it and put it back via the rocker cover?

[Anonymous]

That is the plan I think. I will be taking oil in from the sump and yes I think it will go back via the rocker cover. I have also seen this setup used on competition gearboxes…….

[Anonymous]

That would be an interesting project for a separate thread if you do go for it (with lots of pictures of course)

[Anonymous]

will be going that route probably after Christmas. I have at the moment ripped out the carpets and headlining and an busy cleaning the metal ready for treatment before spray foaming the interior to reduce noise and condensation. I will stop hi jacking this thread and move back to my own one.

[Anonymous]

The car is now put away for the winter. The fuel gauge works fine, just have to replace the float which I have. All the electrics work, the ammeter was reading in reverse, switched the wires and voila! I just have to yank out the engine next year and change the master cylinder which looks to be defective. Oh well, can’t win ’em all.

[Anonymous]

………….

[Anonymous]

An electrical chocolate connector??? ❓ ❓ ❓ I have a white plastic float to use. The cork is full of cracks (there is no damper so likely not original) I put the cork in a bowl full of petrol and it sank faster than the Titanic. I figured on drilling a tight hole in either end of the new float, sliding it on and sealing it with some kind of petrol resistant goo.

[Anonymous]

I just changed the defective master cylinder I got last year from Franssen. What an easy job! Took ten minutes! Description as follows:

Step one: Remove the engine. 🙄

[Anonymous]

Today I installed the repainted boot lid with new handles, looks great! I spent the last week removing the horsehair padding in the boot with a heat gun and a scraper. Not a fun job, but a rag soaked in petrol sure cleans up the residue, ready for POR-15. I still have to do the rear floor in the same way. Not looking forward to it, but at least the damned thing is back together. New exhaust and it’s ready to drive! Having a hard time removing the front door handle with the lock; have to get the door panel off and see what’s what.

[Anonymous]

@L.Lewis wrote:

I just changed the defective master cylinder I got last year from Franssen. What an easy job! Took ten minutes! Description as follows:

Step one: Remove the engine. 🙄

Larry, am I missing something? Just about to remove the master cylinder and get it sleeved by the same people that did the slave cylinders as they did such a good job. It looks like a simple job if you’ve got small hands and the right tool to get to the lower nut. Please enlighten me as it looks like the whole thing is accessable without going near the engine (which is out anyway).

[Anonymous]

Depends upon which year your car is. Earlier cars the master cylinder is behind the engine and not in the jambonneau.

[Anonymous]

Phew, thanks Alistair, that’s a huge relief. Mine is a 1953 Slough Light 15.

[Author]

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