Is it still a project when I haven’t done anything yet

[Anonymous]

@Den Hewitt wrote:

Nothing unusual about the interior handles etc. just re-chrome them.

Den

Are the door handles not made of “Mazak/Zamak” and aluminium alloy which is difficult to re-chrome?
See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamak

See Also: http://www.chromerestorationspecialist.co.uk/projects/mazak-repair/
Regards
Mick

[Anonymous]

The handles on the exterior of my 52 paris car look like they are cast aluminium.

[Anonymous]

Cheaper to just buy new. I bought new handles from Depanoto in 1984 for my 11B and they still look good. Made in Hong Kong, as I recall.

[Anonymous]

The story thus far. The engine bay is painted, new headlight terminals, repaired the stoplight switch. A piece of metal is covering the hole behind the battery and on the back side of it the relays and fuse box are installed. The dashboard is painted and is back together except for the steering wheel. I repaired the many cracks in it with JB-Weld, a two-part epoxy and repainted it flat black. I also filled the two odd holes in the dash with epoxy. I kept the ashtray but I don’t smoke. It has a picture of St. Christopher on it. Patron saint of ashes? White-face temp and oil pressure gauges form Franssen are installed on the left side of the dashboard. All the wiring under the dash and in the engine bay is redone with relays for all the exterior lights and horn, 7 in all counting the reverse light I will be installing. Fuses for everything and so far, everything works. Once the headliner is out I will redo the wiring going aft. Originally only the end terminals are colour coded but I used the same colour wiring throughout. Not original but so what? The wiring in the engine bay I covered with hockey tape. To you non-Canadians this is a cloth tape that when wound around wiring looks original. Cheap, too. The brakes are done with new steel lines and rubber hoses. Since the front floor will be coming out next year and the master cylinder is inaccessible with the engine in place, I made a connection in the fore and aft steel brake line so it can be disconnected when the floor is redone. The rack is done, the ball joints are in good shape, the upper control arm bushings on the driver’s side will need doing but that will wait until next year. Not badly worn but should be done. The differential lash is being set up in my local machine shop. I should have that back tomorrow and will install the engine in the car. Have to pick up the carb that’s being rebuilt locally and the windshield which is having its inner rubber replaced. It’s going to be a busy weekend so I should buy beer.

[Anonymous]

The engine is in and various bits are connected and installed. The clutch and gearshift will need some sorting but it all went well. Getting there!

[Anonymous]

So, ya want pictures, do ya?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/62790594@N03/sets/72157656247064483/

Have a look at these! I took a bunch more but may have deleted them. If they can be recovered they will be posted at the same place. Not much left to do, need to sort out the shift linkage under the dashboard and install the radiator. Oh, yeah and buy some petrol.

[Anonymous]

Hi Larry,
Almost identical to my 1949 11BL, except you have a 2 spoke steering wheel, lights on wings and different indicators (mine are the “jockey” style with parking light underneath).

What is the function of the control arm that comes of the steering column, on the opposite side to the Lights/horn control?

Mine has a different shaped air filter also.

I notice that your car has the chromed steel chevrons on the grille, as mine did.

[Anonymous]

The thing on the steering column is the spark advance. There was no hole on the dashboard for one. I’ve replaced the chrome steel chevrons with aluminium ones in better shape. Den Hewitt said that it should have a three spoke wheel, but that’s what it came with. When I got the car there were truck clearance lights on the front fenders, I have put original types on. According to Den, the car would not have had turn signals at all, but the rear lights are on the roof in about the correct places. The wiring diagram I used did not show turn signals either.

[Anonymous]

Regarding the air filter, does anyone know what it’s called? Somewhere I have labels that I’ve never used, one says as I recall, Miofiltre, the other one says Vokes. Is it either of them? Just have to find them.

[Anonymous]

It runs! I dumped out the old petrol, added a gallon of new, pumped up the carb and wham! Started right up! Runs real good, just need to fix the leak in the front exhaust pipe, the leak in the oil pressure gauge line, adjust the clutch, finish fixing the lights and wipers but it runs! Happy day! 😀 😀 😀 Good oil pressure, doesn’t seem to run very hot and once I adjusted the spark advance, no backfiring. Oh, and the starter cable broke! Old car fun! Should drive it tomorrow if all goes well.

[Anonymous]

Great news…. Bit of snagging but it sounds like it is there.

Starter cable broke on my Pony tractor the other day, I had to use the “wife” starter replacement instead….. She now knows where the starter motor is 😀

[Anonymous]

Fixed the wipers. It seems somebody (me) screwed one of the windscreen frame screw right into the wire to the wiper motor, shorting it out. Just as clever as could be! 😳 😳 Fixed that and they work. Got the stop lights working, looks like everything works except I don’t know about the petrol gauge. ❓ Yet.

[Anonymous]

Lots more pictures posted here. Just about done with it mechanically. Check out that nice differential tool, made by my local machine shop.

[Anonymous]

Any reason why you have fitted what looks like an ‘oil catch tank’?

[Anonymous]

I think that is a oil filter. Looks like it returns the oil via the rocker cover. I am looking at fitting a filter but the design of the engine means it is not going to be a easy task. Currently I am thinking of going for a dry sump system with a external pump, but very early stages for that.

[Author]

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