Is it still a project when I haven’t done anything yet

[Anonymous]

Nice clean engine – looks great

I do like the gauges in the dashboard but I am so hesitant to cut mine so I just used a panel. they look musher nicer in the dash like yours 🙂

[Anonymous]

That is an oil filter that takes a roll of toilet paper. Easy to install, you just need to drill and tap the plug at the rear of the main oil gallery. The gauge tees into the line just before the filter. I put the filter discharge where it is as I don’t think the rocker arms get a lot of oil so I figured it ought to help. A dry sump system does sound intriguing, though. Don’t tell anyone but that green is for Austin-Healey Sprites. I had no problem putting the gauges in that spot, that’s where they are in my 11B. Besides, that area looked pretty bare. Funny thing, there is no heater control there, the opening has the original plug in it but there is no rubber flap for it.

[Anonymous]

Interesting, mine is already drilled for the oil pressure gauge so wouldn’t take a lot more modification.

Where did the filter unit come from Larry?

[Anonymous]

The filter comes from frantzfilters.com They have been around for over 60 years.

[Anonymous]

Wonder if they ship cheaply to Europe.

This does look even more interesting now than before.

Edit: Just had a quick look around. Would something like this also work – http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRAM-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit-Aluminum-REMOTE-FILTER-ADAPTOR-KIT-RAZR-RHINO-/272044280441

Just seems a little cheaper.

[Anonymous]

I don’t see why it wouldn’t, but I wonder if filling that up would affect the oil pressure. In the Frantz unit, there is an orifice so the pressure isn’t affected. Hot rodders use that type of filter so it ought to be OK. There is a nice 11BL that’s for sale in the US that has a vintage type Fram filter that has it’s discharge at the same point as on mine, that’s where I got the idea.

[Anonymous]

@L.Lewis wrote:

I don’t see why it wouldn’t, but I wonder if filling that up would affect the oil pressure. In the Frantz unit, there is an orifice so the pressure isn’t affected. Hot rodders use that type of filter so it ought to be OK. There is a nice 11BL that’s for sale in the US that has a vintage type Fram filter that has it’s discharge at the same point as on mine, that’s where I got the idea.

So I asked the “Bard of East Yorkshire” aka “Mr Steam Car Engineering”:

Roger,
are there any problems in fitting an external oil filter to a traction engine, like one of these (Link to ebygum).

Regards

The response whizzed back in seconds:

“Mick,
YES!!!!!!!!!!
You have to get from the outlet of the oil pump to the inlet of the oil filter and then from the outlet of the filter to the oil gallery in the block.
I have done it but it is a lot of work and requires the engine being stripped down.
I have seen people just connect the filter to the end of the oil gallery where the oil light switch is and back into the sump but this does nothing!
………………Roger

So now you know Roger’s view on the subject.
PS I didn’t tell him it was going to be published on the TOC forum …….

[Anonymous]

Ya know, many years ago (late 80s or early 90s) when I lived in the USA, Roger visited me when traveling by train across the US and Canada. My now ex-wife and I met him for lunch and he looked at my 11B with a Frantz filter and I think he got an idea to do a full-flow filter. Yep, it dumps the filtered oil back to the sump but! The oil without a doubt is a lot cleaner than if there was no filter. I like clean oil. Clean oil is good. An external oil filter doesn’t not do nothing! Or something!

[Anonymous]

And here I sit with a car I can’t drive because the cable stop on the starter bowden cable is missing. There wasn’t one on it when I got the car. Motorcycles, bicycles, scooters, boats, airplanes, snow mobiles, snow blowers all have frickin’ bowden cables and not one of the places that sell the above listed items even knew what the hell I was talking about!(picture the previous sentence spoken in a rising angry voice becoming a shriek at the end) 😥 👿 😈 So, I’m having one made. 💡

[Anonymous]

As we say in Yorkshire

“Use the F’in starter handle”….

[attachment=0:3eop2qva]unnamed.jpg[/attachment:3eop2qva]

[Anonymous]

@mpopka wrote:

So now you know Roger’s view on the subject.
PS I didn’t tell him it was going to be published on the TOC forum …….

I was wondering how the oil would know (i.e. have enough pressure) to go out of the engine and through an external filter and then back in. The size of the pipes/tubing are tiny. I use the threaded outlet on the gallery to feed my oil pressure gauge but that is a dead end and hence the pressure build ups, but I assume on a filter it would just trickle.

I suppose it would not take much to try it out with a €40 unit and just have the oil returning through an old (drilled out) filler cap….. will think some more.

Now I know I am in the cycling business….. but what is a bowden cable… sorry (might be too young 😆 😆 )

[Anonymous]

A bowden cable is the proper name for what a Traction has to operate the choke. A wire inside a coiled-wire outer housing and is sometimes sealed in plastic. Invented in the U.K. over 100 years ago. Regarding the oil filter again, the Frantz unit has no effect on oil pressure. The oil pump will fill it up and oil circulates through it and then back out. You will need to add maybe another quart of oil to the sump which ain’t a bad thing. I’ve had one on my 11B since 1988 and have never had a problem with it. Also, the BL didn’t come with a hand crank, have to get one somewhere.

[Anonymous]

…………

[Anonymous]

Thanks, Den.

[Anonymous]

My ideas on a system of filtering the oil are option one a complete dry sump and a electric oil pump with filter and tanks all external and disable the internal pump. Downside to this is cost as the pump alone is around £900.00 yes I typed that right and then on top of that is filter, tanks and hoses etc. Option two is keep a wet sump and internal pump but take off a feed from the sump and using another type of electric oil pump run the oil through a filter and then return the oil back to the engine. The advantages of this are cost which would be around £350.00 all in and that you control when the oil is being filtered which means should the electric pump die you are not looking at being stuck.
It looks like the electric water pump and a pressurised cooling system will be a go too.
You can tell I went to the NEC and found the items I wanted!

[Author]

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